• This is a political forum that is non-biased/non-partisan and treats every person's position on topics equally. This debate forum is not aligned to any political party. In today's politics, many ideas are split between and even within all the political parties. Often we find ourselves agreeing on one platform but some topics break our mold. We are here to discuss them in a civil political debate. If this is your first visit to our political forums, be sure to check out the RULES. Registering for debate politics is necessary before posting. Register today to participate - it's free!

Setting 21' roof trusses by myself

ttwtt78640

Sometimes wrong
DP Veteran
Joined
May 22, 2012
Messages
103,985
Reaction score
66,783
Location
Uhland, Texas
Gender
Male
Political Leaning
Libertarian
I am building a freestanding, double carport (21' wide and 24' deep) with only post and beam side supports (which I have already built - 6x6 posts with a double 2x8 top plate and 45 degree braced with 4x4s). I have ordered (11) 21' 4/12 pitch with 9" overhang (common) trusses which will be delivered tomorrow afternoon. I have gusetimated their weight to be manageable (about 100 pounds or so) by myself.

My plan (so far) is to construct a temporary back "wall" (out of 2x4s between the back posts) to help support the far end "gable" truss (with the help of a temporary brace to the ground) to keep it plumb and secure. Once that truss is in place, then adding the rest should be fairly easy (famous last words).

The following Youtube video is the basis for my plan but I may skip the rope idea (since detaching it from the truss peak seems like a PITA - the video left that part out) and just make a longer "push and flip" (Y stick) to hold the truss upright (temporarily) if it is not too windy. The top of side beams are only about 8' off the ground (at the highest point) so working off of ladders only (no scaffolding) should work OK.



If anyone has done this (or something close to it) before then I would appreciate any helpful advice. If you never hear from me again then something went very wrong. ;)
 
Last edited:
I’m thinking that hiring some help for the duration of setting the trusses wouldn’t be a bad idea!
 
I am building a freestanding, double carport (21' wide and 24' deep) with only post and beam side supports (which I have already built - 6x6 posts with a double 2x8 top plate and 45 degree braced with 4x4s). I have ordered (11) 21' 4/12 pitch with 9" overhang (common) trusses which will be delivered tomorrow afternoon. I have gusetimated their weight to be manageable (about 100 pounds or so) by myself.

My plan (so far) is to construct a temporary back "wall" (out of 2x4s between the back posts) to help support the far end "gable" truss (with the help of a temporary brace to the ground) to keep it plumb and secure. Once that truss is in place, then adding the rest should be fairly easy (famous last words).

The following Youtube video is the basis for my plan but I may skip the rope idea (since detaching it from the truss peak seems like a PITA - the video left that part out) and just make a longer "push and flip" (Y stick) to hold the truss upright (temporarily) if it is not too windy. The top of side beams are only about 8' off the ground (at the highest point) so working off of ladders only (no scaffolding) should work OK.



If anyone has done this (or something close to it) before then I would appreciate any helpful advice. If you never hear from me again then something went very wrong. ;)


I’ve built a few things solo, and had a few projects that were way too much for a solo job. You said you are getting 11 trusses to cover 24’. One front and one rear leaves you with 9 trusses to cover approx. 24’, what spacing are you using? 24”OC is standard, isn’t it?
 
I’m thinking that hiring some help for the duration of setting the trusses wouldn’t be a bad idea!

I had considered that but unless I had (at least) two other trustworthy people too help me or I rented a lifting device (like an all terrain fork lift - or tractor with forks on the bucket) and had one helper capable of operating it then it would cost me too much (i bid this job fairly tightly for a long-term, repeat customer).

Usually, I do all the high work by myself and only use a helper to hand me stuff from the ground to save me (and thus my customer) loads of time running up and down a ladder. I will do that for the last phase of installing the (16) 3'x12' metal roofing panels on the trusses/purlins.

My best guess is that it will take me under an hour per truss working by myself (including the time to to properly align and brace them). I don't see the work time being cut anywhere near in half even by using helpers and/or rented lifting equipment but it would cost me at least three times as much.
 
I’ve built a few things solo, and had a few projects that were way too much for a solo job. You said you are getting 11 trusses to cover 24’. One front and one rear leaves you with 9 trusses to cover approx. 24’, what spacing are you using? 24”OC is standard, isn’t it?

Yeah...13 trusses should be correct, unless the ends are going to be stick built...
 
I’ve built a few things solo, and had a few projects that were way too much for a solo job. You said you are getting 11 trusses to cover 24’. One front and one rear leaves you with 9 trusses to cover approx. 24’, what spacing are you using? 24”OC is standard, isn’t it?

The side structures are 20' deep (long?) thus 11 trusses 24" on center (OC) will work. To avoid having to use 2x8 front/back beams (adding 7 1/4" of total building height and more cost to the structure) my "gable" trusses are also common trusses (since pre-fab gable trusses both cost more and must sit on a beam/plate for support). I will just set the "gable" trusses back 1 1/2" and scab on some 2x4s flat (24" OC) as nailers for the gable end siding (SmartSide). I am using 2x4s (24" OC) for purlins and adding 2x6 "lookout" rafters to the (overhanging) purlin ends to extend the roof 24" to the front and rear of the gables.
 
Yeah...13 trusses should be correct, unless the ends are going to be stick built...

I will stick build the (4) "lookout" rafters out of 2x6 to hide (and be supported by) the 2x4 purlin ends. I am also adding 2x6 sub-facia to make the roof edges look better (and to allow easier addition of guttering if later desired). The side "wall" plates are only 20' long but I failed to mention that in the OP - nice catch, BTW.
 
The side structures are 20' deep (long?) thus 11 trusses 24" on center (OC) will work. To avoid having to use 2x8 front/back beams (adding 7 1/4" of total building height and more cost to the structure) my "gable" trusses are also common trusses (since pre-fab gable trusses both cost more and must sit on a beam/plate for support). I will just set the "gable" trusses back 1 1/2" and scab on some 2x4s flat (24" OC) as nailers for the gable end siding (SmartSide). I am using 2x4s (24" OC) for purlins and adding 2x6 "lookout" rafters to the (overhanging) purlin ends to extend the roof 24" to the front and rear of the gables.

I see, I used your first sentence in the OP 21’x24’.
 
I will stick build the (4) "lookout" rafters out of 2x6 to hide (and be supported by) the 2x4 purlin ends. I am also adding 2x6 sub-facia to make the roof edges look better (and to allow easier addition of guttering if later desired). The side "wall" plates are only 20' long but I failed to mention that in the OP - nice catch, BTW.

I had never run across this word. The definition gives me the impression of a one piece beam. If I understand your post correctly, your purlins will be segmented between the rafter joists.

“a horizontal beam along the length of a roof, resting on a main rafter and supporting the common rafters or boards.” -from dictionary
 
I see, I used your first sentence in the OP 21’x24’.

Yep, I screwed up and omitted some of my plan details. The 21' number is outside plate to outside plate - the trusses will have 9" of overhang (rafter tails) and 1 1/2" of sub-facia material added which should allow 12' long roofing panels to overhang a bit leaving a gap under the ridge to allow heat to escape. I "cheat" and use corrugated (10 hump) "economy" roofing panels (26" x 8') ripped in half as ridge cap material (15' of ridge cap for about $15). The pre-fab ridge cap material is too expensive (over $25 for 10' pieces). I can create my own ridge cap material for use on this job for $30 (and it only takes few minutes of labor to rip it).

The overall roofed area will be 24' long (deep?) and about 23' wide with a bit over 84" of height - leaving a tad over 20' parking width between the inside edges of the carport's side support posts. The customer has an F-250 crew cab 4x4 truck (otherwise I could have built it lower).
 
Last edited:
I am building a freestanding, double carport (21' wide and 24' deep) with only post and beam side supports (which I have already built - 6x6 posts with a double 2x8 top plate and 45 degree braced with 4x4s). I have ordered (11) 21' 4/12 pitch with 9" overhang (common) trusses which will be delivered tomorrow afternoon. I have gusetimated their weight to be manageable (about 100 pounds or so) by myself.

My plan (so far) is to construct a temporary back "wall" (out of 2x4s between the back posts) to help support the far end "gable" truss (with the help of a temporary brace to the ground) to keep it plumb and secure. Once that truss is in place, then adding the rest should be fairly easy (famous last words).

The following Youtube video is the basis for my plan but I may skip the rope idea (since detaching it from the truss peak seems like a PITA - the video left that part out) and just make a longer "push and flip" (Y stick) to hold the truss upright (temporarily) if it is not too windy. The top of side beams are only about 8' off the ground (at the highest point) so working off of ladders only (no scaffolding) should work OK.



If anyone has done this (or something close to it) before then I would appreciate any helpful advice. If you never hear from me again then something went very wrong. ;)


I would want to arrange some sort of scaffold such that i could walk about at a level where the bottom of the truss was at my waist.

Being me I would like;y use the wood you are going to use for the sides of the shed or whatever.

The longer push stick for getting the truss vertical is a good idea. But if you are up with it you could probably just use a piece of wood attached to the truss to leave it around.

The getting some casual help for the day is an even better idea.

Can the delivery truck not deliver the trusses to the top of the walls? You will need just 1 vertical support for them to lean against whilst you sort them out.

Good luck.
 
I can visualize how I would do this but it would be hard for me to adequately describe. Much like the video, I would push one end up onto the top plate on one to the point where other end would give me enough clearance to be able to push the other side up to do the same. Before I pushed the other side up, I would secure (loosely) the first end with a strap to make sure it did not slip down while trying to push the other side up. I would do this with the ridge down, so your truss would be upside down. Once both truss edges are on the top plate. I would then place temporary 2x4s on one side of the truss end right at the point the truss would be secured at the top plate* to keep the truss from sliding down the plate for the next step. At the ridge of the truss, I would put some type of cleat or even just two 12-16d nails jutting out to use to push the truss ridge upward using a long 2x4. It would probably be good to use light strapping as well at truss ends to prevent the truss for any other slippage while this happens. Once the truss was upright, I would temporarily secure the long 2x4 to hold the truss in place. I would then likely put some more temporary 2x4's on the other side of the truss end* to help hold the truss in place along the plate. Since these are 4/12 trusses, that would mean a height of roughly 3.5' so this should work for 10 of the trusses with a 2' spacing. Obviously the last one would be trickier.
 
I would want to arrange some sort of scaffold such that i could walk about at a level where the bottom of the truss was at my waist.

Being me I would like;y use the wood you are going to use for the sides of the shed or whatever.

The longer push stick for getting the truss vertical is a good idea. But if you are up with it you could probably just use a piece of wood attached to the truss to leave it around.

The getting some casual help for the day is an even better idea.

Can the delivery truck not deliver the trusses to the top of the walls? You will need just 1 vertical support for them to lean against whilst you sort them out.

Good luck.

This is the best way.
 
I had never run across this word. The definition gives me the impression of a one piece beam. If I understand your post correctly, your purlins will be segmented between the rafter joists.

“a horizontal beam along the length of a roof, resting on a main rafter and supporting the common rafters or boards.” -from dictionary

Purlins run 90 degrees to the rafters and serve as attachment points (supports?) for the metal roofing. The 26 GA roofing is rated for 30" purlin spacing but I always overbuild things just a tad. I could have used 1 x 4 material for the purlins (and often do) but then I would still have to have added some 2 x 4s to support the "lookout" (cantilevered?) rafters.

image.jpg
 
Last edited:
I would want to arrange some sort of scaffold such that i could walk about at a level where the bottom of the truss was at my waist.

Being me I would like;y use the wood you are going to use for the sides of the shed or whatever.

The longer push stick for getting the truss vertical is a good idea. But if you are up with it you could probably just use a piece of wood attached to the truss to leave it around.

The getting some casual help for the day is an even better idea.

Can the delivery truck not deliver the trusses to the top of the walls? You will need just 1 vertical support for them to lean against whilst you sort them out.

Good luck.

I have doubts whether this truss supplier delivers with a boom truck - most often trusses are delivered using a basic roll-off flatbed truck or trailer. When I worked as a framing carpenter we built mostly two (or more) story structures and had a crane on site to lift the trusses. Normally, we would get three houses (or one apartment/motel row) ready for roof trusses and set them all in single day using a three man crew (one on the ground and one on each wall plate).
 
I can visualize how I would do this but it would be hard for me to adequately describe. Much like the video, I would push one end up onto the top plate on one to the point where other end would give me enough clearance to be able to push the other side up to do the same. Before I pushed the other side up, I would secure (loosely) the first end with a strap to make sure it did not slip down while trying to push the other side up. I would do this with the ridge down, so your truss would be upside down. Once both truss edges are on the top plate. I would then place temporary 2x4s on one side of the truss end right at the point the truss would be secured at the top plate* to keep the truss from sliding down the plate for the next step. At the ridge of the truss, I would put some type of cleat or even just two 12-16d nails jutting out to use to push the truss ridge upward using a long 2x4. It would probably be good to use light strapping as well at truss ends to prevent the truss for any other slippage while this happens. Once the truss was upright, I would temporarily secure the long 2x4 to hold the truss in place. I would then likely put some more temporary 2x4's on the other side of the truss end* to help hold the truss in place along the plate. Since these are 4/12 trusses, that would mean a height of roughly 3.5' so this should work for 10 of the trusses with a 2' spacing. Obviously the last one would be trickier.

Thank you. I plan to secure stop blocks over (on top of?) the top plates both in order to keep the truss's bottom chord on layout and to keep the truss from from skidding (slipping?) while it is being flipped (tilted?) upright. Only the first truss should be hard to set because once it is secured (temporarily braced) the subsequent trusses can rely on their predecessor(s) for support. IMHO, having a "Y" board on the end of the push stick is more trustworthy than a nail or screw on the side of each truss (plus that leaves nothing which needs to be added to or removed from each truss).

Once I get three trusses up I will plumb them and permanently "X" brace them properly - that is required by code every 20' (so doing that at each end of this small building is all I need to do). Of course, I will add a continuous "rat run" over all of the bottom Truss chords (ceiling joists?) as I go along and then put purlins (24" OC) across the (truss) rafters.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for giving us something besides politics to discuss; nice distraction!
 
Update: I set the (11) 21' trusses by myself with no problems. They only weighed 87# which was a pleasant surprise. To set the last (front) truss I had to (temporarily) extend the side frames about one foot. They are now properly braced with the purlins installed.
 
Update: I set the (11) 21' trusses by myself with no problems. They only weighed 87# which was a pleasant surprise. To set the last (front) truss I had to (temporarily) extend the side frames about one foot. They are now properly braced with the purlins installed.

That is quite an accomplishment ttwtt. Salute!
 
That is quite an accomplishment ttwtt. Salute!

That job is nearing completion. I (almost) finished installing the metal roofing and eve (rake?) trim today. Almost because It still lacks the ridge cap - I make my own by ripping (26" x 96") corrugated metal roofing in half to allow making over 15' of (13" wide) ridge cap for about $15.

All that remains (besides the ridge cap) is to prime and paint the posts, facia and cantilevered (lookout?) rafters and to install and paint the gable end siding - I will be using SmartSide (already primed) or that. Barring any "emergency" job interruptions I should be done with the double carport job next week - which will yield a nice $3K+ "paycheck" upon completion..
 
Update #2: The double carport job is now completed after adding the ridge cap and painting the gable ends to match the house. My girlfriend received the final payment from the customer this evening and I got the job of replacing the fencing on the front of that property. I will soon try to switch my posting device to a newer iPad so that I can post pictures.
 
Back
Top Bottom