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Do You Buy Gasoline By Brand Name?

Do you buy gasoline by brand name?

  • Total voters
    51
Peter King said:
Often I do use only certain brands, mostly I use Shell. I shy away from Russian and French companies.

I also try always to fuel up in Germany because there the cost of fuel is lower, but that I only do if there is a significant price difference.
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When I was in Europe I saw how cheap Canadian gas is and ours is expensive compared to American gas. Recently I saw a Total gas station over here and we already have Shell.
 
I pull into the station, get out of my car, go to the pump, get it ready for use, pour a tiny amount on the ground, light it and measure how fast it burns (I use my phone stopwatch to measure and then consult a chart I carry with me).

If it is too slow;, I extinguish the fire (with a portable fire extinguisher I carry), I get back in my car and try another station.

If it is fast enough; I extinguish the fire, fill up my tank, pay at the pump and leave before the police arrive.

Note - I always cover my plates and my face before I attempt the above. Of course, once a station passes my test, the next time I don't need to test it so I don't need to cover my plates/face. But I sometimes travel a lot so the procedure needs to be repeated every time I fill at a new-for-me station.



Obviously the above is bullsh!t...but I am bored today.
 
I had to vote yes, as I won't buy gas from Citgo, but it's not for gas reasons, but other reasons.

But yes, virtually all of the gas (fuel) comes from the same refineries and is pumped through the same pipeline system, and the only real differentiator is the price at the pump.
 
Carjosse said:
The gas station like Shell or I don't know any other American one really except maybe Mobil(?).
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Oh the gas station. I thought you meant the fuel. It's all the same stuff. I tend to make the decision on where to buy based on the gas station which happens to be convenient at the moment.
 
The only thing that influences my decision is that the night girl at the BP is hot as all hell.
 
pbrauer said:
Yes

no
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Yes, I do - for three reasons - firstly, my car runs much better with the octane level and brand I buy, secondly, I get Airmiles there as a bonus, and finally, I'm a person who's extremely loyal to businesses and people who are good and decent in their dealings with me - I'm the type of customer most businesses try to acquire and do lots to keep.
 
Whatever is closest when I need gas. Sometimes, I try to stop at the same station because I have a rewards card there and when I build up enough points I can get a free pack of smokes.
 
I usually go up to the Farmers cop every couple of weeks and get a tank of non-ethanol gas, though it's more expensive then that crap with ethanol, and the truck seems to run better.

Other then that, it's mostly by price and convenience, though I do tend to go to several places that offer 'club' discounts (of which I am a member).
 
pbrauer said:
Yes

no
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I don't usually a specific brand, but I do avoid Texaco stations, because I've had a few bad experiences with engine warning lights coming on, after filling up at Texaco stations. The first time, I thought it must have been an anomaly, but it happened three times, with two different vehicles, so I will buy just about anything besides gas at a Texaco station.
 
KevinKohler said:
On a racing platform, brand still doesn't matter, just octane rating, based on compression. Which, around where I live in CT, means I buy Shel gas for the vette (11-1 CR), as it's the only gas station around that offers 97 octane. Most premium gas up here is 93-95 octane...but I can squeeze out just a tiny bit more advance timing by sticking to the 97, without getting detonation.
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I pretty much use shell as much as possible. However there is a couple of stations in town with ethanol free gas and I use that in the motorcycle.
 
KevinKohler said:
Care to give me a starting point?


I'm involved in several car forums, and they have researched this rather extensively. Once upon a time, there were major chemical differences between brands, now? Not so much, beyond octane rating, and in some cases, amount of cleansers, which is added after the gas is delivered. To go further...gas stations get their gas from the same refinery, regardless of brand, and then in some cases (like shell v power) get additives after delivery. Only primary difference is from state to state...some states use different methods to calculate minimum octane rating, which is posted at the pump, and states vary on how much ethanol is allowed.

Literally, the gas truck stops at BJs, fills their tank, then makes a delivery to shell down the street, then Cumberland farm.


But round here, shell is the only one with 97 octane. Down in FL, I used to be able to buy 102. Wish I could get that here.
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I buy 100 at our local county airport for my classic car
 
If I can find a station that sells ethanol free gas I buy it because I usually get slightly better mpg with it. However usually I just get it at Sam's Club or at the local QT. Gas is pretty much all the same anymore, there are slight variations in detergents in it, but thats about it. Oil is the same way, SN oil is so good that it doesn't matter what you get as long as its SM or SN grade. I run synthetic oil in my vehicles because I change it myself and only change it 2 times a year, once in spring and again in fall. However, if you are just doing the every 3,000 mile OCI, then there is no reason to run synthetic at all unless you live somewhere that routinely gets down to 40 below zero and thus your car benefits from synthetic's lower pour point.

That all said, if you do go longer on your OCIs then you should get a better filter, something like a PureOne, and you should go with very high quality synthetic gear lube being that stays in there for at least 50k to 100k between changes.
 
If you dont get your gas cap on correctly it can cause your engine light to come on. Any reason the gas cap would not be on right at just the Texaco?
lizzie said:
I don't usually a specific brand, but I do avoid Texaco stations, because I've had a few bad experiences with engine warning lights coming on, after filling up at Texaco stations. The first time, I thought it must have been an anomaly, but it happened three times, with two different vehicles, so I will buy just about anything besides gas at a Texaco station.
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mak2 said:
If you dont get your gas cap on correctly it can cause your engine light to come on. Any reason the gas cap would not be on right at just the Texaco?
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No, no reason at all. I know how to put my gas cap on, and there's no logical reason to think that I have a memory lapse at Texaco stations, after 40 years of driving lol.
 
I thought maybe there was an attendent, I think there are still a few of those stations left.
lizzie said:
No, no reason at all. I know how to put my gas cap on, and there's no logical reason to think that I have a memory lapse at Texaco stations, after 40 years of driving lol.
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mak2 said:
I thought maybe there was an attendent, I think there are still a few of those stations left.
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There is only one in the town nearest me, and it's too high-priced for me to consider it.
 
mak2 said:
I go to speedway, get gas and a cup of coffee, say Hi to the girl that works nights, then mosey on to work.

My only standard is I have not bought a gallon of BP, at least at a BP station since the spill.
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Because the station caused the spill. :roll:
 
SouthernDemocrat said:
If I can find a station that sells ethanol free gas I buy it because I usually get slightly better mpg with it. However usually I just get it at Sam's Club or at the local QT. Gas is pretty much all the same anymore, there are slight variations in detergents in it, but thats about it. Oil is the same way, SN oil is so good that it doesn't matter what you get as long as its SM or SN grade. I run synthetic oil in my vehicles because I change it myself and only change it 2 times a year, once in spring and again in fall. However, if you are just doing the every 3,000 mile OCI, then there is no reason to run synthetic at all unless you live somewhere that routinely gets down to 40 below zero and thus your car benefits from synthetic's lower pour point.

That all said, if you do go longer on your OCIs then you should get a better filter, something like a PureOne, and you should go with very high quality synthetic gear lube being that stays in there for at least 50k to 100k between changes.
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Anyone who changes their oil every 3,000 miles is a complete moron, unless it is the most harsh conditions on the planet. There is no reason to be that wasteful.
 
American said:
Anyone who changes their oil every 3,000 miles is a complete moron, unless it is the most harsh conditions on the planet. There is no reason to be that wasteful.
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I agree, but most people still do.
 
I change mine between 5-6k. I think the lube places came up with the 3000 mile thing.
 
cpgrad08 said:
Whatever is the cheapest at the time.
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I miss the days when there was real price competition. I don't know about other areas but in my area, it's like some one has a master switch. All places go up (especially) and down at the same time, at the same $ rate.

Here they all come from same supplier so I buy by price and most convenient at the time.
 
I have 4-cylinder engine in my car. It's vary selective and does't want to ride on bad gasoline. Usually refuel Shell or Mobil. 87- regular. Motorcycle rides only on 93 or higher. The same sellers.
 
How often to do oil changes depends on the oil you use, the car you drive, and the way you drive it.

Example.

I have 2 cars, an 05' civic ex, small, higher revving, 1.7 liter. And a 76' corvette, big, low revving, higher compression 5.7 liter V8.

Prior to rebuilding the top end on the 350 in the vette, I ran traditional Dino oil in it, and changed the oil once a year, which was around every 1,500 miles. Excessive, right? Wrong. That engine burned oil, and when I drove it, I stomped on it, all the time. It was a dog. I put 1,500 miles a year on it...1,500 of the roughest, pedal to the metal, 6k rpm shifts everytime miles ever. Then I rebuilt the motor, modern heads, modern(ish) cam, etc. and I now run valvoline blue racing oil, as it has zddp, needed to insure long life on a flat tappet cam. It's full synthetic, lighter weight oil. I change it every two years now, which is under 3k miles...but 3k miles of auto cross, road racing, occasional drag strip, etc.

My civic? Full synthetic, 5w-20, every 10k miles.
 
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