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Which rifle to put a silencer on?

but you know....I bet you were a much better shot with your very familiar gun than he was with all of his.

I had an old 03A3 Springfield once and was shooting next to a guy with a weatherby and scope.
We were both shooting at 100 yard swinging boiler plates and he missed all of his shots and i hit 4 out of 5 with my 03A3.

I was also humbled when some old geezer cleaned all of our clocks with his Ruger .22 single six at a silhouette match.

my favorite has always been the .22 single shot/bolt that I learned to shoot with at age 6. It was my Dad's; my brother has it & we shoot it when I visit :)

Shooting that .22 almost makes me feel like I'm 6 years old again but then when I look in a mirror :shock: .......... :lamo ..........
 
Why not silence all of them?
 
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OK, I have purchased two cans and am awaiting approval. One for a .22 and the other a thirty caliber.
In the mean time I am trying to decide which one of two 7.62 NATO / .308 caliber rifle to put the thirty caliber one on.

The top rifle is a shortened DSA version of the FAL, and the other is a bolt action Spanish FR-8.
Both were designed from the ground up to fire the 7.62 NATO round.
The Spanish modified their Mausers into this light and very cool version in the early 60's I believe, but used new CETME barrels.
I included the second picture to show everyone the morphing they did.

No matter which one I choose, I will have to keep the loads under 1100FPS for the silencer to be effective.

So, as i know there are lots and lots of more technical gun owners out there on this forum I pose to you my dilemma.

1. Reduce my loads to AK levels (130 grain bullet @ 2300FPS) and shoot both but put the silencer on the FAL. It will only make the blast less and a bit quieter. On the FR-8 it will lessen the recoil significantly and still be effective for any game in the area. No bears or elk here at all.

2. Reduce my loads to subsonic and put the can on the FR-8 and have a truly fun plinker and really good hunting rifle.

3. Reduce my loads to subsonic and put the can on the FAL and realize my hidden Rambo fantasies as i eliminate the heathen pine cones and tin cans on my property up in the woods.

4. Keep the FAL as is because it is tuned for full power 7.62 NATO ammo and keep it handy for when the bad guys come parachuting down on us in a RED Dawn scenario or Zombie Apocalypse.

I put my dilemma before you all, oh wise ones.

Speaking as someone who likes things simple, you might be overthinking it.
 
When I saw the Mauser I thought it must be joking. I don't know crap about silencers, but the quintessential one man cannon? It seems ludicrous. The target is too far away to hear your indirect fire anyway, right?
 
A little history about some of the face-palming history that involved these guns.

The FN FAL was originally designed by the Belgians to become the new, efficient "assault rifle" for NATO, after the earliest assault rifles were designed by the Nazis during WW2(Stg 44 & Stg 45), along with a shorter, reduced power, intermediate cartridge. Assault rifles were a 2 part improvement over the larger, longer, heavier 'battle rifles' that had been the standard infantry weapon from 1880's - 1940s. They used long, full sized cartridges that were designed for longer ranges than were deemed necessary. That brings up the 2nd important aspect to a modern, light, short assault rifle. A shortened, lightened, intermediate cartridge.

Of course, after ww2, the Belgians were SURE that NATO would adopt an intermediate cartridge, since by that time, the Russians had learned from the German's assault rifle technology, and designed intermediate cartridges of their own. It was a NO BRAINER for NATO to do the same!

But the Belgians were WRONG! For some ungodly reason, the top military brass in America decided NOT to accept a true assault rifle, or an intermediate cartridge. Instead, they INSISTED that ALL NATO countries adopt yet another(new) battle rifle cartridge, the 7.62 x 51mm, and America designed a new battle rifle for its own military, the Springfield M14. Although it's actually a nice rifle, with improvments over its predecessor(the M1 Garand), any battle rifle was still going to be an outdated design from day 1.

It wasn't until Eugene Stoner designed the AR-10 and eventually the AR-15, and Robert Mcnamara finally FORCED the US military to adopt the AR-15(M-16) in the mid 60s, as well as a new, smaller, lighter cartridge( 5.56 x 45mm NATO).

But that didn't help the poor Belgians, who had designed their FAL in the 50s, when the US adopted the larger 7.62x51mm cartridge, meaning that Fabrique Nationale was forced to redesign the FAL to handle and fire the much more powerful 7.62mm cartridge. As a result, the FAL was really no lighter than a ww1 or ww2 era battle rifle!

It was a nice rifle for its time, and was adopted by MANY NATO countries, and used for many years. It was considered "the right arm of the free world". In fact, during the Falklands war, BOTH the English and the Argentinians used the FAL against each other, although the Brit version was semi-auto, while the Argentine forces had the full-auto version. Supposedly the Brits would capture Argentine FAL's, and use their full auto version instead!
 
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Why not silence all of them?

$500 to $900 per unit
$200 tax per unit
Must have the paperwork with you at all times when shooting it.

I have about 14 guns.
A bit under gunned for a native Texan, but hey, this is why i do not have suppressors on all of them.

i just dress like a rich man, but am not.
 
my favorite has always been the .22 single shot/bolt that I learned to shoot with at age 6. It was my Dad's; my brother has it & we shoot it when I visit :)

Shooting that .22 almost makes me feel like I'm 6 years old again but then when I look in a mirror :shock: .......... :lamo ..........

We are kindred souls.
The last time i went out to my property, I spent all my shooting time with a Remington 514 .22 single shot.
Just like the one I learned on.

You are right.
Fun, relaxing, very safe, and you can do it all day without breaking the bank or your shoulder.
 
Speaking as someone who likes things simple, you might be overthinking it.

I think you are right.
but let me overthink it for a few more days and get really confused.

Then grab my single shot .22 and have fun all day long.
(don't even need ears)
 
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When I saw the Mauser I thought it must be joking. I don't know crap about silencers, but the quintessential one man cannon? It seems ludicrous. The target is too far away to hear your indirect fire anyway, right?

Here in East Texas the target is seldom more than 50 yards away.

and if shooting / hunting on someone else's land, the less BOOM the better.
 
Here in East Texas the target is seldom more than 50 yards away. and if shooting / hunting on someone else's land, the less BOOM the better.

Lots of interesting ahhhh opinions on suppressors here, I wonder just how many have actually fired rifles with a suppressor attached, much less at game animals like feral hogs.... :confused:

First the suppressor does nothing for the supersonic crack but that crack depends a lot on velocity as it passes the listener, the distance away from the listener and frankly is rather like the sound of a 30 cal bullet hitting flesh and bone. The hog you hit will never know what happened, and unless the rest of the passel has heard suppressed weapons before they jump and flinch a bit but seem to take it in stride, especially at night (Texas allows night hunting of ferals) Now the bullet slap is pretty intense at ranges under 300 yards with a 308/7.62. With my unsuppressed Mauser I can hear the bullet ravel downrange AND the loud smack of the bullet striking home.

One benefit no one seems to have noticed is recoil is really reduced, more so than many muzzle brakes. Great for follow up shots with semi rifles. They do get pretty damned hot on the practice range and many a 'high speed' cover has charred or melted to the can.

Ummm if you do a little research you can get adapters on both rifles and switch the suppressor back and forth with ease....

The accuracy isn't affected if the installation is true to the bore- issues arise when the suppressor is slanted ever so slightly and the bullet strikes the plates inside the tube. Shop the work around.

Good luck... :peace
 
Here in East Texas the target is seldom more than 50 yards away.

and if shooting / hunting on someone else's land, the less BOOM the better.

Yeah, I bet a guy with a silencer gets a lot more invitations to help clear pests. That makes sense. So silence the one best for that.
 
Lots of interesting ahhhh opinions on suppressors here, I wonder just how many have actually fired rifles with a suppressor attached, much less at game animals like feral hogs.... :confused:

First the suppressor does nothing for the supersonic crack but that crack depends a lot on velocity as it passes the listener, the distance away from the listener and frankly is rather like the sound of a 30 cal bullet hitting flesh and bone. The hog you hit will never know what happened, and unless the rest of the passel has heard suppressed weapons before they jump and flinch a bit but seem to take it in stride, especially at night (Texas allows night hunting of ferals) Now the bullet slap is pretty intense at ranges under 300 yards with a 308/7.62. With my unsuppressed Mauser I can hear the bullet ravel downrange AND the loud smack of the bullet striking home.

One benefit no one seems to have noticed is recoil is really reduced, more so than many muzzle brakes. Great for follow up shots with semi rifles. They do get pretty damned hot on the practice range and many a 'high speed' cover has charred or melted to the can.

Ummm if you do a little research you can get adapters on both rifles and switch the suppressor back and forth with ease....

The accuracy isn't affected if the installation is true to the bore- issues arise when the suppressor is slanted ever so slightly and the bullet strikes the plates inside the tube. Shop the work around.

Good luck... :peace

I've never used or needed a suppressor, so I haven't put much thought into any of its potential benefits, aside from reduced noise. But now that you mention it, it does make sense that suppressors would reduce recoil, and it should reduce muzzle rise, which would be especially beneficial to pistols that are chambered for more powerful cartridges.

As the gasses are expelled into the interior of the suppressor, there are a lot of built in 'obstacles' that reduce noise, but also provide surfaces for the gasses to exert force against, providing an opposing force in the opposite direction of recoil. There should be some variability of muzzle ride and recoil reduction, depending upon the internal design of each suppressor.
 
Lots of interesting ahhhh opinions on suppressors here, I wonder just how many have actually fired rifles with a suppressor attached, much less at game animals like feral hogs.... :confused:

First the suppressor does nothing for the supersonic crack but that crack depends a lot on velocity as it passes the listener, the distance away from the listener and frankly is rather like the sound of a 30 cal bullet hitting flesh and bone. The hog you hit will never know what happened, and unless the rest of the passel has heard suppressed weapons before they jump and flinch a bit but seem to take it in stride, especially at night (Texas allows night hunting of ferals) Now the bullet slap is pretty intense at ranges under 300 yards with a 308/7.62. With my unsuppressed Mauser I can hear the bullet ravel downrange AND the loud smack of the bullet striking home.

One benefit no one seems to have noticed is recoil is really reduced, more so than many muzzle brakes. Great for follow up shots with semi rifles. They do get pretty damned hot on the practice range and many a 'high speed' cover has charred or melted to the can.

Ummm if you do a little research you can get adapters on both rifles and switch the suppressor back and forth with ease....

The accuracy isn't affected if the installation is true to the bore- issues arise when the suppressor is slanted ever so slightly and the bullet strikes the plates inside the tube. Shop the work around.

Good luck... :peace

I had obtained an M15 X 1 adaptor for the FR-8 (HK threads), and now it seems I may have wasted my money, though it was only $20 or so.
It semms the twist of the FR-8 is 1:12 and too slow to stablize the heavy Lapua 200 grain bullets I will be using.
So it looks like the FAL is te better choice, or as some suggested,....just get a 300 Blackout upper and go for it.

Decisions, decisions.

The things we do for plinking pine cones, clay pigeons, and tin cans.

OH.....I got a call from my neighbor next to my property. It seems the hogs uprooted all the dirt around my mailbox and his.
Hurry up, ATF...time to put some poke chops on the grill.
 
I had obtained an M15 X 1 adaptor for the FR-8 (HK threads), and now it seems I may have wasted my money, though it was only $20 or so. It semms the twist of the FR-8 is 1:12 and too slow to stablize the heavy Lapua 200 grain bullets I will be using. So it looks like the FAL is te better choice, or as some suggested,....just get a 300 Blackout upper and go for it. Decisions, decisions. The things we do for plinking pine cones, clay pigeons, and tin cans. OH.....I got a call from my neighbor next to my property. It seems the hogs uprooted all the dirt around my mailbox and his. Hurry up, ATF...time to put some poke chops on the grill.

Just outta curiosity why 200 grain and why Lapua? I used an old British sniper rifle barrel with a 1 in 12, it stabilized a 168gr out to 600 yards at 1200' asl. Just as an aside it isn't weight of bullet but length, some lighter VLD bullets are harder to stabilize as they are longer than more traditional shaped bullets... :peace
 
Just outta curiosity why 200 grain and why Lapua? I used an old British sniper rifle barrel with a 1 in 12, it stabilized a 168gr out to 600 yards at 1200' asl. Just as an aside it isn't weight of bullet but length, some lighter VLD bullets are harder to stabilize as they are longer than more traditional shaped bullets... :peace

The FR-8 only has an 18 inch barrel and a 1;12 twist.

I would LOVE to use a British sniper rifle barrel like you did, but with only 18 inches.....not so much.

Why Lapua? I have read they are reliable at low velocities and seem to be the only 200 grainers out there.
I would love to find a round nose in 200.

The low velocities in a short barrel cause stabilization issues. The last thing i need is to have the bullet bang up the baffels.

The more i delve into it, the more complicated it gets.
 
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The FR-8 only has an 18 inch barrel and a 1;12 twist. I would LOVE to use a British sniper rifle barrel like you did, but with only 18 inches.....not so much. Why Lapua? I have read they are reliable at low velocities and seem to be the only 200 grainers out there.
I would love to find a round nose in 200. The low velocities in a short barrel cause stabilization issues. The last thing i need is to have the bullet bang up the baffels. The more i delve into it, the more complicated it gets.

Don't overthink this, 18" is a real handy length, more than long enough. I own an LTR 308 with an 18" barrel so I have an idea of what 18" can do. There are plenty of videos online that show a barrel being cut back to 12" and the velocities measured. You're not gaining much in stability by wishing for a longer barrel, throw a can on that length and you are very front heavy and that leads to barrel droop as the barrel heats up during practice. There are videos of that online as well.

(Secret shooter hint- EVERY name brand bullet out there is 'reliable' at lower velocities.)

I use Hornady 168/150, 170 lappy, Sierras, old Nosler J4s , from 150 fmj to 220 VLDs... from 2200fps to 3100 fps. Obviously the heavier bullets don't move at 3,100 fps in my rifles due to pressure issues. Stability issues occur downrange- not at the muzzle. Set-up a series of targets from 50yds to however far you can- I shoot to 1,000 yds, I hunt to 500. I like the 150 to 170 range with the Amax my fav for deer/coyotes and the 170 FMJ lappy for tougher feral hogs. (everyone has a fav for any game- I like FMJ for pigs and anything over 150 with 168/170 being the sweet spot for me.)

Do some practical exercises before deciding what you read online is true. Old Japanese proverb, a man who believes everything he reads shouldn't read... :peace
 
Don't overthink this, 18" is a real handy length, more than long enough. I own an LTR 308 with an 18" barrel so I have an idea of what 18" can do. There are plenty of videos online that show a barrel being cut back to 12" and the velocities measured. You're not gaining much in stability by wishing for a longer barrel, throw a can on that length and you are very front heavy and that leads to barrel droop as the barrel heats up during practice. There are videos of that online as well.

(Secret shooter hint- EVERY name brand bullet out there is 'reliable' at lower velocities.)

I use Hornady 168/150, 170 lappy, Sierras, old Nosler J4s , from 150 fmj to 220 VLDs... from 2200fps to 3100 fps. Obviously the heavier bullets don't move at 3,100 fps in my rifles due to pressure issues. Stability issues occur downrange- not at the muzzle. Set-up a series of targets from 50yds to however far you can- I shoot to 1,000 yds, I hunt to 500. I like the 150 to 170 range with the Amax my fav for deer/coyotes and the 170 FMJ lappy for tougher feral hogs. (everyone has a fav for any game- I like FMJ for pigs and anything over 150 with 168/170 being the sweet spot for me.)

Do some practical exercises before deciding what you read online is true. Old Japanese proverb, a man who believes everything he reads shouldn't read... :peace

I think you hit the nail on the head. I used my FR-8 all over the country hunting and maybe I really did not want to put a can on it and was subconsciously looking for an excuse.
I love that little rifle.
Some may call it a "beater" or a 'truck gun", but it is my GO TO rifle for any hunting I do.....or used to do, anyway.
I have dropped it on the rocks, had it slide off into the mud, and even killed a snake with the butt.
Still shooting where i want it to.

Kicks like an angry mule with German NATO ammo, but hey...waddayagonnado. I love it.
 
Kicks like an angry mule with German NATO ammo, but hey...waddayagonnado. I love it.

Couple of things-

First learn to reload, cuts the cost of shooting dramatically. I COULD use 46 grains of Varget to push my 168gr Amax/170 FMJ Lappys bullets in Rem/Win/Hornady brass. I use 44 grains and deer/coyotes/feral hogs don't seem offended by the reduced load. It reduces recoil and muzzle blast, increases brass life.

Next to increase Length of Pull on the carbine stocked LTR I use a slip on recoil pad and that is a great help all the way round.

Another trick for recoil sensitivity is a piece of foam ground pad cut like a kidney bean, a blast of spray adhesive and then slipping it under your shirt over your collar bone. Works wonders and much cheaper than a specialized shooter's jacket.

Enjoy... :peace
 
Sounds like a fun experiment. And “fun” is the only reason you need to do it. Let us know how it goes.
 
Just outta curiosity why 200 grain and why Lapua? I used an old British sniper rifle barrel with a 1 in 12, it stabilized a 168gr out to 600 yards at 1200' asl. Just as an aside it isn't weight of bullet but length, some lighter VLD bullets are harder to stabilize as they are longer than more traditional shaped bullets... :peace

It's true that bullet length is more important than bullet weight, when it comes to stabilization and accuracy, but usually a heavier bullet equates to increased length(depending on construction materials and design shape). So for the most part, if you want a longer bullet, you are also going to get a heavier bullet.
 
It's true that bullet length is more important than bullet weight, when it comes to stabilization and accuracy, but usually a heavier bullet equates to increased length(depending on construction materials and design shape). So for the most part, if you want a longer bullet, you are also going to get a heavier bullet.

Pretty much the design and construction IS the big deal. I use the Amax bullet which has been around for a decade or so. Pretty much any plastic tipped bullet (often called a ballistic tipped) plays up a weight class or two. Lead tipped and FMJs are restricted in design and follow the older rule of thumb, but there are now waaay too many choices to not use the advances in tech- so it is all about the materials and design shape.

A BC chart shows most BT bullets have a much better number than their lead nosed spitzer or FMJ partner of any comparable weight. The chart will also show the BT bullet has a BC equal to the next weight class up.

Every major bullet maker has a BT series and there are now VLD bullets in chain sporting good stores like Cabela's or Bass Pro.

When it comes to beating the slow twist, bullet design does matter. One simple trick is to use a flat based bullet instead of a boat tail. Out to 200 yards or so the flat based is more accurate and shorter than the boat tail so stability issues can be negated.(Keyword is can be) So too a round nose/spitzer vs a hollow point/BT for enough weight vs length of bullet.

If we want to get really tricky altitude (air pressure) comes into play. At sea level my LTR can't keep a 168 Amax supersonic to 1,000 yards and keyholes the target. At 1200' asl it works, at Raton NM which is a mile above sea level the LTR is a hot piece of iron... ;)

Lots of fun facts to play with or ignore depending on one's level of OCD... ;)
 
Don't overthink this, 18" is a real handy length, more than long enough. I own an LTR 308 with an 18" barrel so I have an idea of what 18" can do. There are plenty of videos online that show a barrel being cut back to 12" and the velocities measured. You're not gaining much in stability by wishing for a longer barrel, throw a can on that length and you are very front heavy and that leads to barrel droop as the barrel heats up during practice. There are videos of that online as well.

(Secret shooter hint- EVERY name brand bullet out there is 'reliable' at lower velocities.)

I use Hornady 168/150, 170 lappy, Sierras, old Nosler J4s , from 150 fmj to 220 VLDs... from 2200fps to 3100 fps. Obviously the heavier bullets don't move at 3,100 fps in my rifles due to pressure issues. Stability issues occur downrange- not at the muzzle. Set-up a series of targets from 50yds to however far you can- I shoot to 1,000 yds, I hunt to 500. I like the 150 to 170 range with the Amax my fav for deer/coyotes and the 170 FMJ lappy for tougher feral hogs. (everyone has a fav for any game- I like FMJ for pigs and anything over 150 with 168/170 being the sweet spot for me.)

Do some practical exercises before deciding what you read online is true. Old Japanese proverb, a man who believes everything he reads shouldn't read... :peace

It's always good to challenge yourself. That's why I do all my 1,000++ yard shooting with .22 short. Oh, and iron sights..... I've been disappointed that I can't seem to do any better than 1.5", seven shot groups with consistency, with .22 short at 1,000++ yards...... Darn it! Lol
 
It's always good to challenge yourself. That's why I do all my 1,000++ yard shooting with .22 short. Oh, and iron sights..... I've been disappointed that I can't seem to do any better than 1.5", seven shot groups with consistency, with .22 short at 1,000++ yards...... Darn it! Lol

This is why I believe the old Japanese proverb... :peace
 
Couple of things-

First learn to reload, cuts the cost of shooting dramatically. I COULD use 46 grains of Varget to push my 168gr Amax/170 FMJ Lappys bullets in Rem/Win/Hornady brass. I use 44 grains and deer/coyotes/feral hogs don't seem offended by the reduced load. It reduces recoil and muzzle blast, increases brass life.

Next to increase Length of Pull on the carbine stocked LTR I use a slip on recoil pad and that is a great help all the way round.

Another trick for recoil sensitivity is a piece of foam ground pad cut like a kidney bean, a blast of spray adhesive and then slipping it under your shirt over your collar bone. Works wonders and much cheaper than a specialized shooter's jacket.

Enjoy... :peace

I have been reloading since I was a kid with an old discarded Lyman "nutcracker" tool. Remember that thing? I still have it.
Now I have a cast iron Lyman turret press and an RCBS aluminum turret press and about 16 sets of dies

I LIKE recoil....to a point.
but, yes, I was going to develop a load in the 2300FPS area with 130 grain bullets for the little guy, but.....
But now all that has come to a halt until I can get healthy again. Doc says it ain't happnin.
So, my novel is taking center stage right now.

Shame...
 
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