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Has anyone done a hand rubbed wood finish?

beerftw

beerftw

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Just stripped the whole stock on my mosin nagant of the numerous layers of stain, varnish and shellac, yeah they never ever stripped it, just kept piling layer over layer of non matching finish. So I decided after googling to do a hand rubbed finish with linseed oil, problem was I could find non locally but found tru oil instead, which is linseed oil with a hardener.

First 2 coats darkened the wood a little, and got soaked up in the wood quick. Coats 3-4 started leaving some laminate film. I am on coat 6 and it is still shiney after starting to dry. Got it down to oil it, them wet sand it, then oil it again using my hands rubbing the oil in until the friction heats up the oil, and it is starting to look awesome.


So to the point I have used various stains, laquer, varnish, shellac, and paint in the past, but I am seeing how good this looks and now I am thinking about using it on many of my woodworking projects. What else to use it on and has anyone else done it or have advice on how to do a better hand rubbed finish.
 
lol "hand rubbed wood"
 
beerftw said:
Just stripped the whole stock on my mosin nagant of the numerous layers of stain, varnish and shellac, yeah they never ever stripped it, just kept piling layer over layer of non matching finish. So I decided after googling to do a hand rubbed finish with linseed oil, problem was I could find non locally but found tru oil instead, which is linseed oil with a hardener.

First 2 coats darkened the wood a little, and got soaked up in the wood quick. Coats 3-4 started leaving some laminate film. I am on coat 6 and it is still shiney after starting to dry. Got it down to oil it, them wet sand it, then oil it again using my hands rubbing the oil in until the friction heats up the oil, and it is starting to look awesome.


So to the point I have used various stains, laquer, varnish, shellac, and paint in the past, but I am seeing how good this looks and now I am thinking about using it on many of my woodworking projects. What else to use it on and has anyone else done it or have advice on how to do a better hand rubbed finish.
Click to expand...
Maybe give different textured leathers a test run?
 
beerftw said:
Just stripped the whole stock on my mosin nagant of the numerous layers of stain, varnish and shellac, yeah they never ever stripped it, just kept piling layer over layer of non matching finish. So I decided after googling to do a hand rubbed finish with linseed oil, problem was I could find non locally but found tru oil instead, which is linseed oil with a hardener.

First 2 coats darkened the wood a little, and got soaked up in the wood quick. Coats 3-4 started leaving some laminate film. I am on coat 6 and it is still shiney after starting to dry. Got it down to oil it, them wet sand it, then oil it again using my hands rubbing the oil in until the friction heats up the oil, and it is starting to look awesome.


So to the point I have used various stains, laquer, varnish, shellac, and paint in the past, but I am seeing how good this looks and now I am thinking about using it on many of my woodworking projects. What else to use it on and has anyone else done it or have advice on how to do a better hand rubbed finish.
Click to expand...

Boiled linseed oil. They sell it at Lowes and Home Depot. Make sure it's just boiled linseed oil and that it doesn't have any unscented kerosene or chemical sealants in it. Then rub, and rub, and rub some more.
 
beerftw said:
Just stripped the whole stock on my mosin nagant of the numerous layers of stain, varnish and shellac, yeah they never ever stripped it, just kept piling layer over layer of non matching finish. So I decided after googling to do a hand rubbed finish with linseed oil, problem was I could find non locally but found tru oil instead, which is linseed oil with a hardener. First 2 coats darkened the wood a little, and got soaked up in the wood quick. Coats 3-4 started leaving some laminate film. I am on coat 6 and it is still shiney after starting to dry. Got it down to oil it, them wet sand it, then oil it again using my hands rubbing the oil in until the friction heats up the oil, and it is starting to look awesome. So to the point I have used various stains, laquer, varnish, shellac, and paint in the past, but I am seeing how good this looks and now I am thinking about using it on many of my woodworking projects. What else to use it on and has anyone else done it or have advice on how to do a better hand rubbed finish.
Click to expand...

Back when I was younger I would cut down some 'crotch' wood pecan from my creek bottom, let it season for a year and then cut the center 2" for a rifle stock. I stained it with red mahogany. Let it sit for a few days and then used TUNG oil, yeah I can hear the jokes. Slow to dry, takes a few coats but gives an excellent low gloss to high gloss (depending on the number of coats) finish.

And yes my wife would complain I rubbed on my rifles (I named them) more than her... :peace
 
notquiteright said:
Back when I was younger I would cut down some 'crotch' wood pecan from my creek bottom, let it season for a year and then cut the center 2" for a rifle stock. I stained it with red mahogany. Let it sit for a few days and then used TUNG oil, yeah I can hear the jokes. Slow to dry, takes a few coats but gives an excellent low gloss to high gloss (depending on the number of coats) finish.

And yes my wife would complain I rubbed on my rifles (I named them) more than her... :peace
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I find it's best to 'rub my wood' early in the morning!
 
For most wood finishing I use a penetrating stain and a polyurethane sealer but I use special "food safe" (non-toxic) finishes for butcher block counter tops and other wood products that will come in contact with food.

This "food safe" finishing product requires heating (setting it on your closed vehicle's dashboard works well) since it contains bees wax which is a solid at room temperature:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Howard-12-...aa5882b23b2a&gclid=CLys1q3AiNQCFYKCaQodA6UKzQ

More on the subject:

Butcher Block Wax and Cutting Board Oil - Food Safe Wood Finish
 
For those interested, there's an old finish you can make yourself using one part turpentine, on part tung oil, and one part urethane or any other oil based varnish. It requires significant time and work, but offers a superior finish in many respects. I'll provide more information for anyone curious.
 
beerftw said:
Just stripped the whole stock on my mosin nagant of the numerous layers of stain, varnish and shellac, yeah they never ever stripped it, just kept piling layer over layer of non matching finish. So I decided after googling to do a hand rubbed finish with linseed oil, problem was I could find non locally but found tru oil instead, which is linseed oil with a hardener.

First 2 coats darkened the wood a little, and got soaked up in the wood quick. Coats 3-4 started leaving some laminate film. I am on coat 6 and it is still shiney after starting to dry. Got it down to oil it, them wet sand it, then oil it again using my hands rubbing the oil in until the friction heats up the oil, and it is starting to look awesome.


So to the point I have used various stains, laquer, varnish, shellac, and paint in the past, but I am seeing how good this looks and now I am thinking about using it on many of my woodworking projects. What else to use it on and has anyone else done it or have advice on how to do a better hand rubbed finish.
Click to expand...
I have...but nothing as complicated as what you have already done. Love to see the finished product on the MN stock.
 
beerftw said:
Just stripped the whole stock on my mosin nagant of the numerous layers of stain, varnish and shellac, yeah they never ever stripped it, just kept piling layer over layer of non matching finish. So I decided after googling to do a hand rubbed finish with linseed oil, problem was I could find non locally but found tru oil instead, which is linseed oil with a hardener.

First 2 coats darkened the wood a little, and got soaked up in the wood quick. Coats 3-4 started leaving some laminate film. I am on coat 6 and it is still shiney after starting to dry. Got it down to oil it, them wet sand it, then oil it again using my hands rubbing the oil in until the friction heats up the oil, and it is starting to look awesome.


So to the point I have used various stains, laquer, varnish, shellac, and paint in the past, but I am seeing how good this looks and now I am thinking about using it on many of my woodworking projects. What else to use it on and has anyone else done it or have advice on how to do a better hand rubbed finish.
Click to expand...

I use tung oil rather than linseed. But either makes a good finish.
 
Hand rubbed wood is fine, but I much prefer the penetrating.... with or without oil.

And FYI, I dont know why you guys are talking about staining - it should come right out with a little soap and water.
 
humbolt said:
For those interested, there's an old finish you can make yourself using one part turpentine, on part tung oil, and one part urethane or any other oil based varnish. It requires significant time and work, but offers a superior finish in many respects. I'll provide more information for anyone curious.
Click to expand...

Good morning, humbolt. :2wave:

I bought a beat up 100-year old antique child's school desk at an auction a while back, and haven't decided how to make it look good again! Would your recipe work on something like that?
 
polgara said:
Good morning, humbolt. :2wave:

I bought a beat up 100-year old antique child's school desk at an auction a while back, and haven't decided how to make it look good again! Would your recipe work on something like that?
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Please don't hand rub child wood.
 
polgara said:
Good morning, humbolt. :2wave:

I bought a beat up 100-year old antique child's school desk at an auction a while back, and haven't decided how to make it look good again! Would your recipe work on something like that?
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Sure, but you'll probably have to remove whatever old finish is still on it. I'll be glad to walk you through it if you decide you'd like to try it. It's a lot of work, but it's very durable and if you do it properly (it's a very forgiving process) it'll look great. As a cautionary note, if you're concerned about maintaining it's value as an antique, refinishing it won't be the way to go. If you're not concerned about that, it's helpful to bear in mind that you won't necessarily want to remove every bit of old finish in all the dents and dings in the surfaces. What species of wood is it?
 
Cisero said:
Please don't hand rub child wood.
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Greetings, Cisero. :2wave:

It's a sturdy little desk with a top that lifts up via unusual hinges. The writing area and the seat are connected so it's really an "all in one-piece" item of furniture. I bought it because it's made from American Wormy Chestnut wood, which I was told by a carpenter is rare these days and expensive, plus the desk I bought is not something you see every day in furniture stores. :cool:
 
humbolt said:
Sure, but you'll probably have to remove whatever old finish is still on it. I'll be glad to walk you through it if you decide you'd like to try it. It's a lot of work, but it's very durable and if you do it properly (it's a very forgiving process) it'll look great. As a cautionary note, if you're concerned about maintaining it's value as an antique, refinishing it won't be the way to go. If you're not concerned about that, it's helpful to bear in mind that you won't necessarily want to remove every bit of old finish in all the dents and dings in the surfaces. What species of wood is it?
Click to expand...

American Wormy Chestnut.
 
beerftw said:
Just stripped the whole stock on my mosin nagant of the numerous layers of stain, varnish and shellac, yeah they never ever stripped it, just kept piling layer over layer of non matching finish. So I decided after googling to do a hand rubbed finish with linseed oil, problem was I could find non locally but found tru oil instead, which is linseed oil with a hardener.

First 2 coats darkened the wood a little, and got soaked up in the wood quick. Coats 3-4 started leaving some laminate film. I am on coat 6 and it is still shiney after starting to dry. Got it down to oil it, them wet sand it, then oil it again using my hands rubbing the oil in until the friction heats up the oil, and it is starting to look awesome.


So to the point I have used various stains, laquer, varnish, shellac, and paint in the past, but I am seeing how good this looks and now I am thinking about using it on many of my woodworking projects. What else to use it on and has anyone else done it or have advice on how to do a better hand rubbed finish.
Click to expand...

I've used Tung Oil on quite a few projects including all the inside window frames in my house. I've also used the Birchwood Casey Tru-oil on a few gun stocks. I've used Danish Oil a fair amount too.
 
Winchester said:
I've used Tung Oil on quite a few projects including all the inside window frames in my house. I've also used the Birchwood Casey Tru-oil on a few gun stocks. I've used Danish Oil a fair amount too.
Click to expand...

If you use Tung, its almost by definition not hand rubbed.
 
beerftw said:
Just stripped the whole stock on my mosin nagant of the numerous layers of stain, varnish and shellac, yeah they never ever stripped it, just kept piling layer over layer of non matching finish. So I decided after googling to do a hand rubbed finish with linseed oil, problem was I could find non locally but found tru oil instead, which is linseed oil with a hardener.

First 2 coats darkened the wood a little, and got soaked up in the wood quick. Coats 3-4 started leaving some laminate film. I am on coat 6 and it is still shiney after starting to dry. Got it down to oil it, them wet sand it, then oil it again using my hands rubbing the oil in until the friction heats up the oil, and it is starting to look awesome.


So to the point I have used various stains, laquer, varnish, shellac, and paint in the past, but I am seeing how good this looks and now I am thinking about using it on many of my woodworking projects. What else to use it on and has anyone else done it or have advice on how to do a better hand rubbed finish.
Click to expand...
while i see you have used shellac in the past, wonder if you applied a french polish. if not, here are the directions that i used to refinish a guitar neck that had lost its finish over the years:
How to French polish for a fast finish without spraying | stewmac.com

given the amount of time required to achieve a great finish, i would not attempt this on a large project. one excellent feature of french polish is that it is easy to reapply to a marred area at a later date without being able to see that the finish was repaired
 
Depending on your project, wipe on poly is not bad. It leaves no brush strokes and provides a pretty hard surface to protect the wood.
 
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