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Bullet casting

Slingshot Bob said:
I can never find # 10's for sale, sounds like an internet order!
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I order number 10 remingtons from cabelas, same place I get my 451 and 454 lead balls, since no local supplier carries them. Number 11 is for modern reproductions of rifles, number 10 is for modern reproductions of revolvers, for originals you need to research it, as the originals did not follow a standard like reproductions did.
 
Slingshot Bob said:
Any bullet casters here? I cast .451 round lead ball (133 gr.) For my 44 cap n ball revolvers. I have about 80 pounds of lead (wheel weights, diving weights and old lead pipe)

I also cast small lead statues, any one here do metal casting? (Not just bullets)?
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I am a black powder enthusiasts. Back when i was looking at casting i couldn't find moulds. Now i simply don't have the time.
 
Slingshot Bob said:
Cap n balls are a female dog to clean!
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I only have one flint lock. I just clean it in a wash tub with soap and water and then dry it off and wipe it down with bore butter.

My Thompson .50 muzzle loader hasn't had any issues and I've been cleaning out that way for 11 years.
 
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CLAX1911 said:
I only have one flint lock. I just clean it in a wash tub with soap and water and then dry it off and wipe it down with bore butter.

My Thompson .50 muzzle loader hasn't had any issues and I've been cleaning out that way for 11 years.
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A rock banger? If you ever make your own flints.....or priming powder!
 
CLAX1911 said:
I bought a berral and a trigger group but shaped the wood myself.

The one i want to make is the Ethan Allen pepper box, but they are very prone to chain fire.
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Had one chainfire on my 1858 Remington new model Army. The 12 o clock (normal) and the 6 oclock. I knew it when I dropped the hammer, to much noise and tremendous recoil. I was not hurt, or the gun. I neglected to clean off a WD 40 like lubricant before loading.
 
Slingshot Bob said:
Had one chainfire on my 1858 Remington new model Army. The 12 o clock (normal) and the 6 oclock. I knew it when I dropped the hammer, to much noise and tremendous recoil. I was not hurt, or the gun. I neglected to clean off a WD 40 like lubricant before loading.
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Chain fire might hurt my hand but i doubt it will hurt this gun.

pepperbox.jpg
 
CLAX1911 said:
Chain fire might hurt my hand but i doubt it will hurt this gun.

pepperbox.jpg
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Those are cool. When my revolver chainfired, the ball lodged into the frame whttps://www.dixiegunworks.com/images/thumbs/PH1260.JPGhere the loading lever sits. I am saving my pennys for this single shot

Dad gum picture failed to load, it is a 44 single shot with a brass frame.
 
CLAX1911 said:
I only have one flint lock. I just clean it in a wash tub with soap and water and then dry it off and wipe it down with bore butter.

My Thompson .50 muzzle loader hasn't had any issues and I've been cleaning out that way for 11 years.
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I am a firm believer in "moose milk"...mixture of Ballistol and water. Neutralizes black powder salt residues and also acts as a metal protectant and wood preservative. Smells like backside though. Many long range bp shooters swear by it...
 
BretJ said:
I am a firm believer in "moose milk"...mixture of Ballistol and water. Neutralizes black powder salt residues and also acts as a metal protectant and wood preservative. Smells like backside though. Many long range bp shooters swear by it...
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The soap and water works really well and bore better smells nice
 
Slingshot Bob said:
Those are cool. When my revolver chainfired, the ball lodged into the frame whttps://www.dixiegunworks.com/images/thumbs/PH1260.JPGhere the loading lever sits. I am saving my pennys for this single shot

Dad gum picture failed to load, it is a 44 single shot with a brass frame.
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It's nice looking.
 
CLAX1911 said:
The soap and water works really well and bore better smells nice
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Bore butter works great, but for the lazy cleaner it can cause some extreme rusting. Bore butter does not displace water or corrosive salts in black powder, and people tend to clean them and not dry them properly before applying it, which traps the water in the metal.

The other one being people applying bore butter without cleaning out the blackpowder, and blackpowder salts attract water in the air, again seals moisture in. I can not count the number of muzzleloaders I have seen at pawn shops with extremely corroded barrels, just because someone used bore butter but could not take the short time to actually clean and dry it properly.
 
BretJ said:
I am a firm believer in "moose milk"...mixture of Ballistol and water. Neutralizes black powder salt residues and also acts as a metal protectant and wood preservative. Smells like backside though. Many long range bp shooters swear by it...
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I just use crisco or lard, makes cleanup easy and does not attract carbon like petroleum oils. On my revolver I tend to use normal oil to coat the barrel while it sits, which I dry patch before shooting and use crisco or lard in each cylinder unless I forgot to bring it, which I have a tube of bore butter as backup.
 
beerftw said:
I just use crisco or lard, makes cleanup easy and does not attract carbon like petroleum oils. On my revolver I tend to use normal oil to coat the barrel while it sits, which I dry patch before shooting and use crisco or lard in each cylinder unless I forgot to bring it, which I have a tube of bore butter as backup.
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When I clean mine with Hopes # 9 I use regular motor oil or air tool oil and so far, so good!
 
beerftw said:
Bore butter works great, but for the lazy cleaner it can cause some extreme rusting. Bore butter does not displace water or corrosive salts in black powder, and people tend to clean them and not dry them properly before applying it, which traps the water in the metal.

The other one being people applying bore butter without cleaning out the blackpowder, and blackpowder salts attract water in the air, again seals moisture in. I can not count the number of muzzleloaders I have seen at pawn shops with extremely corroded barrels, just because someone used bore butter but could not take the short time to actually clean and dry it properly.
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Yeah, i clean mine with a field rod and rags then dry it throughly. Bore butter protects and conditions the steel.

I paid 45 bucks for it at a gun show. The trader said it had a bulge in the berral and it was petty clogged up with mud. I just wanted to practice my bluing skills on it, but after digging out about two inches of mud i hit some cosmaline or Vaseline type grease in it and then removed two balls and a wet powder charge. Striped the rust and crap out and it wasn't pitted much it was only down in the chamber. So instead of just a cool wall piece i have a functional black powder rifle. I had to get new wood, but that wasn't hard.
 
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