What should be penalty for 20mph+ over limit speeding?

joko104 · Oct 22, 2013

KevinKohler said:
Did you make that vid, or do you mean that this vid reminds you of how your wife drives?

If it was you...nice road. Where's that at? And advice, out a small bright weighted item on the end of a short string, and dangle that from the mirror. Low tech g meter...gives the viewer a better idea of speed. I do it in my vette vids...it's always fun to see how close to sideways I can get it before the tires break.

No, not her. Nor her car (though she is currently talking with an Audi dealer in Georgia over a white one exactly like it as it is more sophisticated than her tricked out 4 rotor Mazda, though it wouldn't be as fast as the Mazda.) I came across this video reading about what she's thinking of getting. The one she is negotiating over is a NEW STOCK 2012 that's just been sitting on the showroom floor unsold in an Audi dealer is a small city. She saw it when we picked up a used '05 AMG/Renntech Mercedes CL65 there she got me for my birthday. The '05-06 CL65 is the fastest production Mercedes ever made, though doesn't look like it.

They told her "no, we don't let people test drive it" when she first asked, but then changed their mind when they saw she was with me and we were paying green cash for the CL65. But by then she had soured over it. Since, though, her and the dealer have been talking over the phone. She really likes how they look, they do have serious potential, but the are costs and availability of performance mods questions she still has.

She is hesitating because modification parts for those are rare and astronomically expensive - and to her it is not just the cost of the car but what it's potential is and what it takes to reach it. In stock form the R8 V10s don't have THAT impressive of performance stats, other than in handling. She looks at those kinds of numbers.

That is how she drives UNLESS a child is in the car with her, she is near where children are or in town. Some roads around here are more winding that in the video.

CRUE CAB · Oct 22, 2013

KevinKohler said:
In CT, they aren't. I was gonna buy a tube frame C3, but after going to the DMV prior to purchase, was told the car could not be registered due to it not having a legal chassis. I think if it's a tube frame from the factory, sorta like the old ford gt40, or some newer super cars, it's fine. Are you sure the DMV was aware your car was tube frame when you got it registered? I'm pretty sure it's a DOT thing.

I'd love to do a tube frame for my 76, as it sits, best I can hope for to reduce flex is a good cage, and even at that, up here, only 4 point roll bars are street legal.

How were they going to know unless you had a rebuilt title or something?

joko104 · Oct 22, 2013

USViking said:
Oh is that so?

Did you actually look at the citation? Here is what the owners have to say about themselves on their home page:

Forensic Dynamics Inc. is a consulting forensic engineering firm specializing in accident reconstruction...
Our firm has reconstructed over 10,000 accidents and given expert witness testimony in over 500 trials across North America.

Seems I have to decide who to believe, Forensic Dynamics, Inc., or some putz who calls himself “joko.”

joko loses.

Whoa Nellie- not the distance I claim, the distance a company of auto accident reconstruction engineers claims.

And speaking of citations, you could stand to provide a few of your own. Don’t blame me for not trying, though- I googled all kinds of “Mercedes CL65 braking performance” hits, and found nothing except sales boilerplate glossy.

But, taking your 1/3 the distance****at face value, assuming a drunk takes triple the normal time to react, he will stop a car doing 70mph in about 400 feet, whereas at 170mph Mr. cold sober joko hotstuff needs about 647 feet to stop that CL65 of his. (I will provide the calculations as soon as I see a believable cite for the 1/3 the distance claim)

Joko loses again, this time to a drunk.

Rehash, covered.

Interesting you haven’t told us you would prefer someone driving home from the neighborhood bar at a sober 130.

:lamo SO... your complaint is that my car can only stop in only HALF the distance rather than ONE THIRD the distance you claimed?

Here's 127 feet at 60 mph for OEM tires. Mine actually are a bit wider and sticker. I think you said what, 234 feet from 70 and 10 miles from 170 or something like that.
http://www.motorweek.org/reviews/road_tests/2005_mercedes-benz_cl_65_amg

Not mentioned in the article is the CL65 of that particular two years has dual totally independent brake systems powering two independent sets of brake pads and calipers. Redundancy. No brake fade even at that level of stress. The 05-06s specifically designed to go a continuous 186 mph on the German highway with 4 passengers.

I probably would be agreeing with some of this about high speed danger until I actually started researching (and driving) modern cars, and modern performance cars with modern tires and modern brakes and modern suspensions. Cars aren't what they used to be.

A ZR1 going 170 on open road is safer than a 1960s car doing 100. And I'm not a Vette fan. I just recognize what they can do. That ZR1 driver is more likely by a factor of 1000 to be killed by someone coming thru an urban intersection in an SUV while texting or messing with the radio. No one else is endangered on an open road.

Absolutely I would prefer a sober person doing 130 in a car suited for it than a drunk doing 70 in ANY vehicle. I've driven very fast (never 170), but I have NEVER driven DUI even slightly. Not in my life.

KevinKohler · Oct 22, 2013

CRUE CAB said:
How were they going to know unless you had a rebuilt title or something?

All cars coming out of state get a vin check, a visual, and performance. Brakes are checked, ebrake, cats are checked, etc.

Hell, it's illegal in this state to swap an older motor into a newer car. For instance, swapping a gen 1 sbc 383 into a Porsche 944? Illegal. But that's a lot harder to catch.

CRUE CAB · Oct 22, 2013

KevinKohler said:
All cars coming out of state get a vin check, a visual, and performance. Brakes are checked, ebrake, cats are checked, etc.

Hell, it's illegal in this state to swap an older motor into a newer car. For instance, swapping a gen 1 sbc 383 into a Porsche 944? Illegal. But that's a lot harder to catch.

I would move.

KevinKohler · Oct 22, 2013

CRUE CAB said:
I would move.

I never wanted to come here in the first place. I lived in Sarasota, FL, before moving to ****meintheassnecticut. But this is where all of my wife's family lives. So the choice was made for me.

Grendel · Oct 22, 2013

Lord of Planar said:
You obviously have never driven a car designed to go that fast.

My daily driver is a c5 Corvette. It's designed to run at 180 . . . on a track. I barely hit 100 on VA Route 15 and was floating. However, on I-66 is was a lot better. The thing is that the public roads just aren't engineered for that.

Lord of Planar said:
My daily drive was from Gaertringen to Vaihingen. I would normally cruise a nice safe, and with the faster traffic, at about 130 MPH... Daily...

Aren't those roads much, much better than our highways?

Rocketman said:
This is my latest project, so far it is just a good loud driver

<image>

Beautiful.

DVSentinel said:
Highway design is not really an issue except entry and exits. Highway quality is a real issue though. Americas highways are actually some of the best designed in the world, just poorly maintained and not enough planing done on getting on and off.

A lot of highways have changes in elevation that aren't safe at 170 . . . you'd go airborne. Others, as you've said, aren't maintained. Not all highways are nice, smooth blacktop, either. There are still concrete or gravel/tar roads. On those rough roads, going over 90 in a C5 and you're floating a bit. You can still steer enough to change lanes slowly at 90, but if you needed to either stop, or change quickly, you'd be screwed. I wouldn't even try at 170. Not a chance.

joko104 said:
ALL INTERSTATES were designed so that military vehicles such as army trucks could go at least 100 mph. That was and is the legal standard, so you are wrong.

I was in Florida when the 55 limit was dropped, and Florida said they'd cap at 70 because Florida's highways were designed for 70 MPH traffic. Where'd you get the 100 MPH thing? Also, is that "go 100 in war conditions" or "go 100 safely".

joko104 said:
You are wrong about cars becoming airborne the faster they go. That's true if you're driving a 1950s Olds Rocket 88. It does NOT apply to modern performance cars. They actually get heavily the faster they go due to ground effects (wings, flairs, spoilers and underbody structure.)

Not unless they're either very, very expensive or professionally tuned. My C5 is engineered to stay aerodynamically neutral. When some dumbass buys a wing at PepBoy's to stick on his car, there's not telling what it's going to do at 170. Might flatten his suspension, might lift his rear so he can't break.

Mind you, I'm strongly in favor of relaxing traffic laws, just not that much. 170 on public roads is ridiculous.

KevinKohler · Oct 22, 2013

Grendel said:
My daily driver is a c5 Corvette. It's designed to run at 180 . . . on a track. I barely hit 100 on VA Route 15 and was floating. However, on I-66 is was a lot better. The thing is that the public roads just aren't engineered for that.

Aren't those roads much, much better than our highways?

Beautiful.

A lot of highways have changes in elevation that aren't safe at 170 . . . you'd go airborne. Others, as you've said, aren't maintained. Not all highways are nice, smooth blacktop, either. There are still concrete or gravel/tar roads. On those rough roads, going over 90 in a C5 and you're floating a bit. You can still steer enough to change lanes slowly at 90, but if you needed to either stop, or change quickly, you'd be screwed. I wouldn't even try at 170. Not a chance.

I was in Florida when the 55 limit was dropped, and Florida said they'd cap at 70 because Florida's highways were designed for 70 MPH traffic. Where'd you get the 100 MPH thing? Also, is that "go 100 in war conditions" or "go 100 safely".

Not unless they're either very, very expensive or professionally tuned. My C5 is engineered to stay aerodynamically neutral. When some dumbass buys a wing at PepBoy's to stick on his car, there's not telling what it's going to do at 170. Might flatten his suspension, might lift his rear so he can't break.

Mind you, I'm strongly in favor of relaxing traffic laws, just not that much. 170 on public roads is ridiculous.

The C5 was designed to have a low drag coefficient, the help boost top speed on straights. They were not hp monsters...even the LS6 powered Z had 400hp. In order for it to be competitive, the Chevy engineers compromised on downforce and high speed handling, in favor of greater acceleration at speed, and over all top speed. The C6 generates a lot more downforce, but maintains its formidable acceleration and top speed, because even the base model makes either 400 or 430, depending on year...and the mighty 427 powered Z packs a 505 hp punch. That's what the C6 Z can lap entire seconds ahead of the C5Z, even on tighter circuits, where the 100 extra ponies is less game breaking.

I don't know why you are getting float at the nose at 90 mph, though. Have you altered anything on the body? Raised it or lowered it? It should be pretty firm at 90... My stock bodied '76 is planted, even at 120, the fastest I've ever gone in it. In fact, mine makes TOO much down force on the nose... It's twitchy at higher speeds...

joko104 · Oct 22, 2013

KevinKohler said:
Did you make that vid, or do you mean that this vid reminds you of how your wife drives?

If it was you...nice road. Where's that at? And advice, out a small bright weighted item on the end of a short string, and dangle that from the mirror. Low tech g meter...gives the viewer a better idea of speed. I do it in my vette vids...it's always fun to see how close to sideways I can get it before the tires break.

I don't know where.

The sideways starting is not only common on 1 wheel drive cars and trucks (most are), but also on "limited slip" differentials, which generally will do about a 60/40 power split under load - though most people call them "positraction." TRUE positraction - like a Detroit locker" - would destroy cornering. She would change the LSD on the Audi and my CL65's differential was replaced with a true "posi" LSD unit (meaning 50/50 split of power) by the original owner. Unlike most people who fixate only on the motor for upping performance, he had the entire drivetrain done (torque converter, transmission, rear differential, not just the motor).

http://www.renntechmercedes.com/www/sites/default/files/imagecache/product/giken_6.jpg
"By upgrading the differential, you benefit in both straight line stability and vehicle handling while cornering. During a full power straight line run, our LSD (limited slip differential) will lock 100% and provide torque equally to each powered wheel, providing stable straight line runs. When exiting from a corner, our LSD's transition to the full 100% lock position is smooth and predictable. This gives the vehicle better traction and stability throughout the corner, improving overall lap times and a noticeable improvement in overall vehicle handling.
The track is not the only place where the differential comes into play though. Bad weather and harsh road conditions can make the street a dangerous place. In snow, ice, wet weather and regions where the road surface can become unstable, our LSD easily adapts and adjusts tire rotation to increase vehicle stability on the road and help to dramatically improve driver safety."

This is part of Renntech's "R3" kit for Mercedes. Such units are made for most cars, costing about $3500 to $7000 depending on brand, not counting installation. They eliminate the unequal launching that 60-40 factory LDSs tend to have - which is why production cars even with so-called "posi" which is really 60-40 limited slip will kick off to one side or the other. If a person really builds up a car AND puts on super sticky drag racing tires this can get them into real trouble on a race track. But TRUE LOCKING posi destroys cornering ability due to having to "drag" one wheel around the corner.

Old "Detroit lockers" basically were like huge ratchets in the differential that you could hear clicking when going around a corner. Strictly for straight line acceleration only.

joko104 · Oct 22, 2013

KevinKohler said:
The C5 was designed to have a low drag coefficient, the help boost top speed on straights. They were not hp monsters...even the LS6 powered Z had 400hp. In order for it to be competitive, the Chevy engineers compromised on downforce and high speed handling, in favor of greater acceleration at speed, and over all top speed. The C6 generates a lot more downforce, but maintains its formidable acceleration and top speed, because even the base model makes either 400 or 430, depending on year...and the mighty 427 powered Z packs a 505 hp punch. That's what the C6 Z can lap entire seconds ahead of the C5Z, even on tighter circuits, where the 100 extra ponies is less game breaking.

I don't know why you are getting float at the nose at 90 mph, though. Have you altered anything on the body? Raised it or lowered it? It should be pretty firm at 90... My stock bodied '76 is planted, even at 120, the fastest I've ever gone in it. In fact, mine makes TOO much down force on the nose... It's twitchy at higher speeds...

Most people don't realize that rear "wings" on their cars actually slow the car down. The energy used to make downforce also is areodynamic drag. The most notable example was the (then) fabulous Lambrogheni Contact - still one of the coolest exotics every made. It's top speed was 150 mph with the big rear wing and 160 mph without it.

One justification Mercedes makes for their cars typically being 500 to 1000 pounds heavier than their performance counter parts, is Mercedes more relies on weight rather than ground effects wings and flares to keep the car down. While this reduced off-the-line launching due to higher weight, the faster a car goes the less important weight is and the more important areodynamics is. Thus, the fastest the Mercedes goes, the more advantage it has for lack of ground effects of lightweight cars.

There are plenty of videos online of 65 series Mercedes in 1 kilometer (5/8ths mile) races where the Mercedes starts out and remains a few car lengths behind a Z06 or Lambrogheni, but will notably blow past those when they get much over 100 mph - because the Mercedes has piles of torque and far less areodynamic drag - with the extra 1/2 ton weight increasingly less relevant.

A lightweight car with ground effects will out accelerate an identical heavier car without - but ultimately the heavier car without ground effects is faster. So what most matters to you? 0-100 mph? Or 100 mph+? Ideally, of course, you'd have unlimited power and ground effects, but other than maybe F1 race cars that isn't the case. Like nearly everything in life, performance issues are a collection of compromise and priority decisions.

joko104 · Oct 22, 2013

KevinKohler said:
The C5 was designed to have a low drag coefficient, the help boost top speed on straights. They were not hp monsters...even the LS6 powered Z had 400hp. In order for it to be competitive, the Chevy engineers compromised on downforce and high speed handling, in favor of greater acceleration at speed, and over all top speed. The C6 generates a lot more downforce, but maintains its formidable acceleration and top speed, because even the base model makes either 400 or 430, depending on year...and the mighty 427 powered Z packs a 505 hp punch. That's what the C6 Z can lap entire seconds ahead of the C5Z, even on tighter circuits, where the 100 extra ponies is less game breaking.

I don't know why you are getting float at the nose at 90 mph, though. Have you altered anything on the body? Raised it or lowered it? It should be pretty firm at 90... My stock bodied '76 is planted, even at 120, the fastest I've ever gone in it. In fact, mine makes TOO much down force on the nose... It's twitchy at higher speeds...

Unfortunately, the inherent shape of cars has the same air flow factors as aircraft wings. What is most important to avoid lift is to minimize air build up UNDER the car by 1.) keeping the car LOW and 2.) some front spoiler/air dam to try to create a low pressure zone rather than high pressure under the car. Top dollar cars actually have body works under the car to smooth it out and keep air from being disrupted by all the exhaust pipes and other maze of stuff under the car that interfere with air flow thus piling air under the car.

This is also why many performance cars now have a method to raise or lower the car depending on usage... ordinary driving and slow driving - raise the car for ground clearance. For performance and high speed driving, drop the car down. Also those tend to allow independently raising and lowering the front and back, which also can be computer programmed to speed. At launch and low speed, you want the front high and the back low - to shift weight to the rear tires for traction. Then drop the front too at high speeds for reduced drag, less lift and lower center of gravity.

joko104 · Oct 22, 2013

The newest generation of cars are technologically amazing, but also particularly deceptive in details - particularly high performance cars.

You will NOT get the horsepower advertised by just getting into the car and driving it. This is particularly true for supercharged and turbocharged cars. You won't even get advertised horsepower by putting it into "sport mode." You have to put it into "dyno mode" - and most manuals WON'T tell you how.

Then there is the question of whether or not to use traction control? If you don't you can get more power. BUT if a really powerful car, it may be more like driving on ice than you can benefit from until you really get to know the car.

Finally, there is the question of HOW important is maximum performance/power to you? You WILL realize SIGNIFICANT increases in horsepower, higher rpm shift points and torque - particularly torque (which few people even consider). The price? It is NOT just the hundreds or $2-3K you spend on the computer upgrading and OEM defeating. You also pay the price of losing your warranty. Even if you put the OEM unit back in before taking it in, the "black box" will know.

SO is it worth it? On performance Mercedes, the increase in horsepower and torque can be dramatic by defeating the factory limits. BUT a new long block alone is going to cost you from $30K to $90K - so a tough choice if the car still in warranty or ANY new car - unless an exception allowed.

KevinKohler · Oct 22, 2013

joko104 said:
Most people don't realize that rear "wings" on their cars actually slow the car down. The energy used to make downforce also is areodynamic drag. The most notable example was the (then) fabulous Lambrogheni Contact - still one of the coolest exotics every made. It's top speed was 150 mph with the big rear wing and 160 mph without it.

One justification Mercedes makes for their cars typically being 500 to 1000 pounds heavier than their performance counter parts, is Mercedes more relies on weight rather than ground effects wings and flares to keep the car down. While this reduced off-the-line launching due to higher weight, the faster a car goes the less important weight is and the more important areodynamics is. Thus, the fastest the Mercedes goes, the more advantage it has for lack of ground effects of lightweight cars.

There are plenty of videos online of 65 series Mercedes in 1 kilometer (5/8ths mile) races where the Mercedes starts out and remains a few car lengths behind a Z06 or Lambrogheni, but will notably blow past those when they get much over 100 mph - because the Mercedes has piles of torque and far less areodynamic drag - with the extra 1/2 ton weight increasingly less relevant.

A lightweight car with ground effects will out accelerate an identical heavier car without - but ultimately the heavier car without ground effects is faster. So what most matters to you? 0-100 mph? Or 100 mph+? Ideally, of course, you'd have unlimited power and ground effects, but other than maybe F1 race cars that isn't the case. Like nearly everything in life, performance issues are a collection of compromise and priority decisions.

Mercedes is also not interested in making a true sports car...an all out, balls up front, pure performance machine. Me recedes employes the best engineers on the planet...if they wanted to build a car that can out lap a Ferrari FXX on the ring, or at Silverstone, they could. But they're not interested in that, nor are their customers. Closest thing me recedes has for uncompromising performance, other than the Sterling Moss, are the AMG black series...and they still fall within the bounds of luxury sport. Their cars are heavy because they have massaging seats, airbags everywhere, hand stitched leather, roomy back seats (!), and more bells and whistles than the delorean in back to the future. Even the Sterling Moss SLR is more about the experience, that chasing seconds around Nurburgring. Their last balls out sports car was the 190 evolution, and even THAT was rife with creature comforts.

Toyota and Subaru have gone the same way now, I think. Instead of making speed machines, they focused on making cars that are fun. They brought back the tuner. Nissan, on the other hand, went with hardcore performance.

Lord Tammerlain · Oct 22, 2013

Grendel said:
My daily driver is a c5 Corvette. It's designed to run at 180 . . . on a track. I barely hit 100 on VA Route 15 and was floating. However, on I-66 is was a lot better. The thing is that the public roads just aren't engineered for that.

Aren't those roads much, much better than our highways?

Beautiful.

A lot of highways have changes in elevation that aren't safe at 170 . . . you'd go airborne. Others, as you've said, aren't maintained. Not all highways are nice, smooth blacktop, either. There are still concrete or gravel/tar roads. On those rough roads, going over 90 in a C5 and you're floating a bit. You can still steer enough to change lanes slowly at 90, but if you needed to either stop, or change quickly, you'd be screwed. I wouldn't even try at 170. Not a chance.

I was in Florida when the 55 limit was dropped, and Florida said they'd cap at 70 because Florida's highways were designed for 70 MPH traffic. Where'd you get the 100 MPH thing? Also, is that "go 100 in war conditions" or "go 100 safely".

Not unless they're either very, very expensive or professionally tuned. My C5 is engineered to stay aerodynamically neutral. When some dumbass buys a wing at PepBoy's to stick on his car, there's not telling what it's going to do at 170. Might flatten his suspension, might lift his rear so he can't break.

Mind you, I'm strongly in favor of relaxing traffic laws, just not that much. 170 on public roads is ridiculous.

The 370z Sport does not have a float issue at 140, most sports cars and sporting cars that can go that speed should have factory spoilers, air dams, ground effects etc that should at least ensure neutral lift if not actual downforce at higher speeds. Porsche tends to have retractable spoilers.

Jerry · Oct 22, 2013

joko104 said:
A highway patrol car on a good condition 4 lane divided highway with a 70 mph speed limit, no other cars on the highway in a remote area picks up a sole car doing 170 mph heading his way on the other side empty and flat open area 2 lanes. A new Corette ZR 1 designed to go 200 mph. When the officer pulls across the center medium, the ZR1 driver (no passenger) pulls over anticipating being stopped.

What should the officer do and what should the penalty be?

Multiple choice, public vote.

The highway speed limit for the left lane should be removed, if there is a center divide. Go as fast as you want.

The highway speed limit for the right lane should be 75-80mph.

Penalty for "speeding" (it was once thought the human brain couldn't handle speeds over 40mph) should be whatever your insurance wants to levy. Don't like their penalty? Get a policy with a different company.

10-15 over in a residential zone sould be a few days in jail, couple thousands fine, and 10-15 over in a school zone should be a felony.

CRUE CAB · Oct 22, 2013

KevinKohler said:
I never wanted to come here in the first place. I lived in Sarasota, FL, before moving to ****meintheassnecticut. But this is where all of my wife's family lives. So the choice was made for me.

I feel for ya. No way I couldnt play with my cars. I honestly would leave a woman that put me in that spot. Thankfully all of my wifes family is here but, they are all from CT. Oddly.

Grendel · Oct 22, 2013

KevinKohler said:
I don't know why you are getting float at the nose at 90 mph, though. .

Only on rough, ****ty highways. Basically gliding across the tops of all the little bumps. But that's the point: Highways aren't race tracks, and aren't meant to be.

Lord Tammerlain said:
The 370z Sport does not have a float issue at 140, most sports cars and sporting cars that can go that speed should have factory spoilers, air dams, ground effects etc that should at least ensure neutral lift if not actual downforce at higher speeds. Porsche tends to have retractable spoilers.

Yes, but again, that's assuming a flat road. On track, or on a very nice, new stretch of highway? Sure. On VA Route 15 South (before they resurfaced it last year) . . . nope.

I'm not doubting the cars. I'm doubting the roads. They're not designed for 170.

Rocketman · Oct 22, 2013

Mason66 said:
That is a beautiful car. I have always been a luxury car man. Cadillac, Imperial and station wagons.

I just sold a fixer upper you would have liked, a 68 Chrysler 300 rag top, fixed up they are beautiful, here is a google pic:

Mason66 · Oct 22, 2013

Rocketman said:
I just sold a fixer upper you would have liked, a 68 Chrysler 300 rag top, fixed up they are beautiful, here is a google pic:

That is a nice car, but I don't want any more convertibles. I love the front end on the '68 300.

I am definately a Chrysler guy. I still have my first car. 1963 Plymouth Fury.

CRUE CAB · Oct 23, 2013

Rocketman said:
I just sold a fixer upper you would have liked, a 68 Chrysler 300 rag top, fixed up they are beautiful, here is a google pic:

Buddy of mine in highschool rocked one of those. Red, black top, deep red interior. Nice cruiser.

KevinKohler · Oct 23, 2013

I was never into being a boat captain...I've had the need for speed for as long as I can remember...and to that end, I like small, light cars. Whenever I finally "finish" my '76, I want to sell it, and get either a C5 zo6, or a C6 grandsport. Likely I'll end up getting the older C5...grand sports STM fetch a pretty penny. Supercharge the Z06, get it some proper rubber, do the auto power roll bar, instal a front splitter, invest in a coil over kit for it, get the guldstrand lemans fixed headlight kit, and call it a race car.

One day, I'd like to sit behind the wheel of an ariol atom. Those HAVE to be the funnest things on four wheels.

Mason66 · Oct 23, 2013

Rocketman said:
I just sold a fixer upper you would have liked, a 68 Chrysler 300 rag top, fixed up they are beautiful, here is a google pic:

May I ask what you got the the 300?

DVSentinel · Oct 23, 2013

KevinKohler said:
I was never into being a boat captain...I've had the need for speed for as long as I can remember...and to that end, I like small, light cars. Whenever I finally "finish" my '76, I want to sell it, and get either a C5 zo6, or a C6 grandsport. Likely I'll end up getting the older C5...grand sports STM fetch a pretty penny. Supercharge the Z06, get it some proper rubber, do the auto power roll bar, instal a front splitter, invest in a coil over kit for it, get the guldstrand lemans fixed headlight kit, and call it a race car.

One day, I'd like to sit behind the wheel of an ariol atom. Those HAVE to be the funnest things on four wheels.

I've sat in the C6, not enough leg room. Also, I can build a lot more horsepower/torque going back to per-emissions and adding modern components onto them. If I want what you describe, don't laugh now, I have two Fiero's that I can build up for that. Only OBD I emissions apply to them.

You mentioned your front having to much down force at speed and cause a bit of wiggle in the rear. Does yours have the rear lip spoiler? If not, you might try adding one to equalize the down force. If so, maybe try a better designed after-market one.

Lord of Planar · Oct 23, 2013

Grendel said:
My daily driver is a c5 Corvette. It's designed to run at 180 . . . on a track. I barely hit 100 on VA Route 15 and was floating. However, on I-66 is was a lot better. The thing is that the public roads just aren't engineered for that.

OK, we have a miscommunication. Floating to me is when the car loses weight to the road from speed. To you, it's the road not being flat enough for those speeds.

Cars will "float" on a perfectly flat road. The shape acts somewhat like an aircraft wing. Cars designed for high speed compensate with a tail wing, air dam, and other shapes to act as a counter effect to the lift.

This is also why in an earlier post, I mentioned I have never seen a stretch on a US freeway that I would go more than 130 MPH on. Our roads just aren't flat enough.

joko104 · Oct 23, 2013

Lord of Planar said:
OK, we have a miscommunication. Floating to me is when the car loses weight to the road from speed. To you, it's the road not being flat enough for those speeds.

Cars will "float" on a perfectly flat road. The shape acts somewhat like an aircraft wing. Cars designed for high speed compensate with a tail wing, air dam, and other shapes to act as a counter effect to the lift.

This is also why in an earlier post, I mentioned I have never seen a stretch on a US freeway that I would go more than 130 MPH on. Our roads just aren't flat enough.

Only Germany has any land that is flat. :lamo

However I had commented in detail earlier also how car shapes have the elements of an aircraft wing.

What should be penalty for 20mph+ over limit speeding?

What should happen for the over 20mph violation example given?

Acknowledge the no-traffic and quality of vehicle in consideration.

Severe chastizing but only written warning.

A ticket, but written for under 20 over due to circumstance.

Write a ticket for over 20 mph but under 100 mph

Write a ticket forthe full 170 mph

A huge $$ fine

Permanently seize car and forfeture it.

Jail time

Suspend driver's license for 1 year

Suspend driver's license for years.

More options

joko104

CRUE CAB

joko104

KevinKohler

CRUE CAB

KevinKohler

Grendel

Well-known member

KevinKohler

joko104

joko104

joko104

joko104

KevinKohler

Lord Tammerlain

Jerry

CRUE CAB

Grendel

Well-known member

Rocketman

Mason66

CRUE CAB

KevinKohler

Mason66

DVSentinel

Lord of Planar

joko104