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What should be penalty for 20mph+ over limit speeding?

What should happen for the over 20mph violation example given?

  • Acknowledge the no-traffic and quality of vehicle in consideration.

    Votes: 3 5.6%

  • Severe chastizing but only written warning.

    Votes: 2 3.7%

  • A ticket, but written for under 20 over due to circumstance.

    Votes: 2 3.7%

  • Write a ticket for over 20 mph but under 100 mph

    Votes: 2 3.7%

  • Write a ticket forthe full 170 mph

    Votes: 21 38.9%

  • A huge $$ fine

    Votes: 10 18.5%

  • Permanently seize car and forfeture it.

    Votes: 3 5.6%

  • Jail time

    Votes: 3 5.6%

  • Suspend driver's license for 1 year

    Votes: 7 13.0%

  • Suspend driver's license for years.

    Votes: 1 1.9%
  • Total voters
    54
What should be penalty for 20mph+ over limit speeding?
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the offender should be forced to watch Cop Rock.



speeding will cease overnight.
 
KevinKohler said:
I've never wrecked a car at the track. I'm just saying that some weird things can happen once you introduce more power and traction to any given car equation.
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Mopar guys tend to be the craziest. ANYTHING to go faster. Some of the early 60s Baracudas are set up radically faster than their chassis are good for.
 
KevinKohler said:
It would take buckets of money to get a challenger up to GTR speed around road circuits, which is what the GTR is designed for. Even the ZR1, which, technically, in the hands of a PRO driver, is faster than the GTR, is not "real world faster". It's only faster on perfect Tarmac, with a great driver at the helm. Normal guys, even moderately skilled guys, which I consider myself to be, have their hands full with the ZR1. I drove that car 10 laps round Lime Rock, and I was fighting for controlled exit speed. I have no doubt that after 10 laps in the GTR, I would consistently post quicker lap times. Mahican is amazing. The GTR is a whale. And makes less power. On paper, it's not even in the same league as the ZR1. But that's the huge advantage of a great AWD system. Me? I still prefer RWD. Probably always will. But the GTR is a glimpse of the future, and that future is AWD.
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LT that I quoted mentioned only 1/4 Mile. No doubt to bring suspension, brakes up to equal for real driving would be a lot more. He mentioned 10 sec cars. Really, who only wants to "drive" for 10 sec. I never cared for drag personally.

Drag and circle tracks are for fast cars, road courses are for fast drivers.
 
earthworm said:
A study is needed..
Punishment must be effective.
I do not think brutality and extremism are effective.
I have few qualms with stretching the law.
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170 is not safe on an open road.
Tracks vs roads.
Tracks get walk down inspections every event.
Tracks get swept every event.
Tracks get cleared of debris before every event.
Tracks get prepped every event.
Tracks have safety and medical staff on site every time they are open.
Tracks have guardrails to keep the cars on the track surface in the event of an out of contol car.
Tracks dont have pot holes, wash outs, puddles, slower traffic.
Highways are not prepped.
Not inspected before every days runnings.
Not cleared of debris.
Not closed off to other traffic merging.
Not guard railed usually.
And no med staff on hand everywhere some bone head decides to leg it out.
Oh, and if that officer died in a wreck trying to catch said 170 driver. That is a manslaughter charge on him. Happend here in Florida a few years ago with a FHP officer losing contol going after a Bike vs Porshe that were clocked at 150+.
 
joko104 said:
The ZR1 is a very fast car. It is "primitive" in terms of suspension, handling compared to state-of-the-art, but for the price (particularly used), they are an exceptionally good deal. And I don't like Vettes. I can't deny their bang-for-the-buck and low cost ease of performance upgrading.

However, for Vettes the real BANG FOR THE BUCK deal is used late model Z06s.
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Actually, the magnetic shocks the ZR1 debuted where state of the art...in 2009. They quickly found their way into many, now, MOST other high end performance cars.

And the BEST bang for buck is a used late model grand sport. Same as Z06, but with an LS3 instead of the LS7, and they cost about 15 grand less. 15 grand buys one hell of a super charger kit! And voila. Poor mans ZR1. Still looking at a 40-60 grand investment, though.
 
DVSentinel said:
LT that I quoted mentioned only 1/4 Mile. No doubt to bring suspension, brakes up to equal for real driving would be a lot more. He mentioned 10 sec cars. Really, who only wants to "drive" for 10 sec. I never cared for drag personally.

Drag and circle tracks are for fast cars, road courses are for fast drivers.
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Well at least us drag racers know where the finish line is. We dont have to go round and round looking for it.
 
CRUE CAB said:
You know how most guys end up in the wall?
The car gets loose and they lift, the suspension unloads, but they nail the throttle thinking "hey its straightend up" break the tires loose rear wants to come around, they correct and the front gets pushed into the wall.
Aborting a run must become second nature in drag racing if something goes wrong. I have seen very few guys able to pedal a car just right to keep it going.
Click to expand...

Honestly, I'm not that experienced at drag racing. Had the vette out a few times, the rustang, and a 383 powered iroc camaro. The mustang was scary. It was a handful. But not impossible.

I've got more seat time at auto cross and on road courses, namely, Lime Rock. And the opposite is true there. Reason why most drives end up off the road or swapping ends, ratings cones, whatever is because they come in to a turn hard, late braking, loading the front, then getting on it to come out of the turn fast...the feel the slide...and lift. Which is, in a RWD car, the worst thing you can do. Don't lift. Finish the slide. One you lift, you get snap over stear. It's a hard instinct to fight. I've ended up facing the wrong way plenty of times. Pretty scary on open track day, even worse when it involves eating a cone in a fiberglass car. Yay bodywork.
 
KevinKohler said:
Honestly, I'm not that experienced at drag racing. Had the vette out a few times, the rustang, and a 383 powered iroc camaro. The mustang was scary. It was a handful. But not impossible.

I've got more seat time at auto cross and on road courses, namely, Lime Rock. And the opposite is true there. Reason why most drives end up off the road or swapping ends, ratings cones, whatever is because they come in to a turn hard, late braking, loading the front, then getting on it to come out of the turn fast...the feel the slide...and lift. Which is, in a RWD car, the worst thing you can do. Don't lift. Finish the slide. One you lift, you get snap over stear. It's a hard instinct to fight. I've ended up facing the wrong way plenty of times. Pretty scary on open track day, even worse when it involves eating a cone in a fiberglass car. Yay bodywork.
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My taste has always been drag racing. Probably just because thats more of what we have in our area.
Like ever one started street racing on the back roads and industrial areas in a 396 Chevelle I built in highschool.
It was fun until it got to be 500 people coming out drinking beer and acting the ass to watch 4 or 5 guys run their cars.
Then I built the MC and went alittle more pro about it.
 
DVSentinel said:
LT that I quoted mentioned only 1/4 Mile. No doubt to bring suspension, brakes up to equal for real driving would be a lot more. He mentioned 10 sec cars. Really, who only wants to "drive" for 10 sec. I never cared for drag personally.

Drag and circle tracks are for fast cars, road courses are for fast drivers.
Click to expand...

It takes real skill to be a competent drag racer, too. Just...different. It's not easy, by any stretch.
 
CRUE CAB said:
My taste has always been drag racing. Probably just because thats more of what we have in our area.
Like ever one started street racing on the back roads and industrial areas in a 396 Chevelle I built in highschool.
It was fun until it got to be 500 people coming out drinking beer and acting the ass to watch 4 or 5 guys run their cars.
Then I built the MC and went alittle more pro about it.
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I got it from my dad. He was always into circuit racing...he liked watching the ALMS races, huge vette fan. So I got a vette as soon as I could afford one. When I was a kid, he took me carting a few times every summer. Great for really learning to drive. My first "race" car, if you could call it that, was a 92 civic with no interior, that me and a buddy swapped a 1.8 VTEC GSR motor and tranny into. First I ever set up, and honestly, I think that car had frame damage. Took it to 3 different shops a
In FL, and never could get rid of a pretty bad pull to the right. But as long as you weren't going over 50, that car handled like a go cart, and had some decent pick up. I miss that car.
 
Lord Tammerlain said:
Quite

The Nissan GTR with 545 hp, large tires all around, launch control and 4 wheel drive can hit the 1/4 mile in 10.8.

I doubt a Dodge Challenger even with a supercharger is going to be able to hit 10.99 or less
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You should look at the NHRA records racing stock car class. Specifically, a 1969 Camaro and a 2002 Firebird have both broke the 10 second mark. (or was that 9 seconds?)

Old US muscle cars are generally underrated, and measured at the wheel.

There are quite a few rules in the stock car class, and these naturally aspirated V8's most definitely broke that 545 HP mark.

Your 4WD is nice but adds weight with the added drivetrain parts. RWD is the only way to go for a quarter mile car.

Now I could be wrong, but I always thought that saying "10 second car" meant breaking 10 seconds. Not breaking 11 seconds...
 
Last edited:
Mason66 said:
A buddy of mine had a 9 second Barracuda and it takes the smallest of things to put you into the wall with that much power, and he did twice.

I decided 12 seconds is the fastest I want to go in a 1/4 mile.
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LOL....

Yep, these cars want to stand, twist, and pivot on one tire!
 
CRUE CAB said:
Thats called poor suspension set up and or poor driver skills.
Could be bad track prep, but if you can build a 9 second car. You should know the track conditions before running.
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Really?

Equal and opposite effects... Do you know physics?

The engine torque twists the body, placing more weight on one tire than the other. Even the best drivers have a tough time compensating for this.

This is the only place the sideways engine has an advantage. The Evolution turns the engine the opposite direction from most front wheel cars to help with the torque problem.
 
CRUE CAB said:
170 is not safe on an open road.
Tracks vs roads.
Tracks get walk down inspections every event.
Tracks get swept every event.
Tracks get cleared of debris before every event.
Tracks get prepped every event.
Tracks have safety and medical staff on site every time they are open.
Tracks have guardrails to keep the cars on the track surface in the event of an out of control car.
Tracks don't have pot holes, wash outs, puddles, slower traffic.
Highways are not prepped.
Not inspected before every days runnings.
Not cleared of debris.
Not closed off to other traffic merging.
Not guard railed usually.
And no med staff on hand everywhere some bone head decides to leg it out.
Oh, and if that officer died in a wreck trying to catch said 170 driver. That is a manslaughter charge on him. Happened here in Florida a few years ago with a FHP officer losing control going after a Bike vs Porsche that were clocked at 150+.
Click to expand...

I do know all these things...so why "preach" .
My limit would be 90, now 70, as I am 73..
I favor the full 170 fine for this risk taker , its not a perfect world , in any manner....
Smart police will use the speed of radio waves to nab a speeder, no Dick Tracy cowboys need apply..
 
Lord of Planar said:
You should look at the NHRA records racing stock car class. Specifically, a 1969 Camaro and a 2002 Firebird have both broke the 10 second mark. (or was that 9 seconds?)

Old US muscle cars are generally underrated, and measured at the well.

There are quite a few rules in the stock car class, and these naturally aspirated V8's most definitely broke that 545 HP mark.

Your 4WD is nice but adds weight with the added drivetrain parts. RWD is the only way to go for a quarter mile car.

Now I could be wrong, but I always thought that saying "10 second car" meant breaking 10 seconds. Not breaking 11 seconds...
Click to expand...

I was going under the assumption that a modern Dodge Challenger with the 5.7 V8 Hemi, with a supercharger, with close to stock size tires (even if they are drag tires) would not be able to break 10 sec. It was I believed a car not purely set up for the drag strip. Chevy and Ford offer versions of the Camaro and Mustang set up for drag racing, that with the proper engine I am sure could. But a Challenger with the only changes being a supercharger and smallish drag slicks I doubt could.

The only reason I brought up the GTR is because of modern non speciality (ie Copo Camaro) production cars it is about the fastest accerating ones out there. It is not optimized for drag racing, but is good at it. It was meant to be a comparison of how unlikely it would be for the 2007+ Challenger to be a 10 sec car
 
Lord of Planar said:
Really?

Equal and opposite effects... Do you know physics?

The engine torque twists the body, placing more weight on one tire than the other. Even the best drivers have a tough time compensating for this.

This is the only place the sideways engine has an advantage. The Evolution turns the engine the opposite direction from most front wheel cars to help with the torque problem.
Click to expand...
Really? Do you know race car geometry? And people that drag race front wheel drive cars are idiots.
I suggest you go to a NHRA event and show me where 500inch prostock cars are coming off the line in screw fashion.
Proper suspension tuning will prevent that, the more a car twists off the line, the slower its going.
 
earthworm said:
I do know all these things...so why "preach" .
My limit would be 90, now 70, as I am 73..
I favor the full 170 fine for this risk taker , its not a perfect world , in any manner....
Smart police will use the speed of radio waves to nab a speeder, no Dick Tracy cowboys need apply..
Click to expand...
I preach because I have seen the results of idiots killing themselves and others doing top end runs for fun. And if you knew how thin the FHP is, you would know that early in the am there is little the radio is going to do at those speeds with off ramps every few miles.
 
CRUE CAB said:
Really? Do you know race car geometry? And people that drag race front wheel drive cars are idiots.
I suggest you go to a NHRA event and show me where 500inch prostock cars are coming off the line in screw fashion.
Proper suspension tuning will prevent that, the more a car twists off the line, the slower its going.
Click to expand...

There is still always some twist on the RWD configuration.
 
Lord Tammerlain said:
I was going under the assumption that a modern Dodge Challenger with the 5.7 V8 Hemi, with a supercharger, with close to stock size tires (even if they are drag tires) would not be able to break 10 sec. It was I believed a car not purely set up for the drag strip. Chevy and Ford offer versions of the Camaro and Mustang set up for drag racing, that with the proper engine I am sure could. But a Challenger with the only changes being a supercharger and smallish drag slicks I doubt could.

The only reason I brought up the GTR is because of modern non speciality (ie Copo Camaro) production cars it is about the fastest accerating ones out there. It is not optimized for drag racing, but is good at it. It was meant to be a comparison of how unlikely it would be for the 2007+ Challenger to be a 10 sec car
Click to expand...

None of them are set up for drag racing from the factory.
Camaro is a IRS car, Challenger is an IRS car, Mustang still uses a solid rear axle.
The COPO Camaro uses a Dana 60 rear if Iam correct, but that is a very rare car that you pay well over 70K for.
Even Vettes that get alot of drag time go through bearing hubs, CVs, ujoints and rear end parts like there is no tomorrow.
 
CRUE CAB said:
Please, read some chassis building books and the NHRA rule book before commenting further.
Chassis twist is the result of a poorly built car. Period.
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Yes, a proper chassis minimized most of the twist that makes it to the wheels.

Are you going to claim this reduction is 100%?

I think not!
 
Lord of Planar said:
Yes, a proper chassis minimized most of the twist that makes it to the wheels.

Are you going to claim this reduction is 100%?

I think not!
Click to expand...
Yes, properly done. A good built suspension will come off square and level.
You see twist in alot of street cars that are unibody or full frame cars that are mainly C channel frame or X frame cars from the 60s.
Chassis twist is reduced to almost nothing through the use of subframe connectors, stiffeners, roll cages, adjustable shocks, adjustable laddar or 4 link bars.
The first thing on a well build car that gets stiffened and braced to reduce twist is the torque box through tubing going from side to side mainly in an X pattern where the rear suspension meets the chassis.
Witness even the fastest mountain motor cars of the IHRA or Outlaw Pro Mod classes and you see the fastest and winningest cars coming out straight and level.
That is proper tuning from the first motor plate all the way back to the wheelie bar.
 
LOL...

Not 100%.

You can get close, but you will never achieve 100%...
 
CRUE CAB said:
Thats called poor suspension set up and or poor driver skills.
Could be bad track prep, but if you can build a 9 second car. You should know the track conditions before running.
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Not at all. He was a professional car builder and driver. There are variations on the track or the previous car left something there.

With the power a 9 second car has, it doesn't take much.
 
KevinKohler said:
I actually just went to englishtown with a busy of mine, and his recently "finished" 88' rustang 5.0. Built motor, from the bottom up, over 8 grand in machine work alone, let alone in components, all said, probably 15 grand sunk in the motor. Rediculously high lift cam, horrible street manners. And a 200 shot of nitrous. On the spray, the car lays down 580 rwhp, which, for some on here, doesn't sound like much...but to have that sort of power to the wheels, he must be making real close to 700hp at the crank. Built tko600 tranny, built ford 9 inch rear end, traction bars, the whole deal. This car took us almost 7 years to build, and a LOT of his money. Car weights 3250 pounds, with him in it. At the track, he ran 275 slicks. Did mid 11 sec passes. Couldn't get traction, with either of us driving. Part of it was body flex, it's just really hard to eliminate in older cars, without going the tube frame rout. We're also going to have to roll the rear fenders so we can safely fit a larger wheel/tire combo, I figure it needs at LEAST 325s. He needs to find a set of 16x10.5 wheels with 4 inch back spacing. He still wants to drive the car on the street, which I won't do (it's a waste of gas, IMO), so he's keeping his 16x8.5s, to run a set of nitto 555s on. Still won't get traction at half throttle with those tires. But whatever.

Last but not least, he needs a good auto tranny, which he is also not going to do, he likes the manual. Will that car ever make a 10 sec pass? Maybe. I don't know.

When I hear kids talking about their 10 second civic or integra, I can't help but laugh. They just have no clue.
Click to expand...

It takes a while to dial in a car.

I take issue with an '88 Mustang being referred to as an older car.

An older car is a 1967 Camaro or a 1970 Barracuda.

The sounds those rice burners make is horrible. Nothing like a deep throat meaty V8.
 
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